CVM2072SM1SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

I first read the previously posted directions from other customers that were sent with my part order confirmation, which were all very helpful. Then, I basically used a screw driver to unscrew the screw holding the lens cover in place - be careful as it is a very tiny screw and it can easily fall behind your oven. You might want to place a large piece of cardboard over the space between oven and wall, as I did, so that you don't lose the screw in case it falls. Next I pried open the prongs, carefully slid out the cracked lens, and slid the new lens in place, pushed back the prongs and put the screw back in. I found that it was easier to use my fingers to first place and tighten the screw because it is very small and will keep falling out of place if you try to just use the screwdriver. Good luck!

however, I had hit the cook button and the microwave did not have an item to cook inside. Resulted in shattering the glass tray and meting the plastic lid sitting inside which was fused to the cooking tray. Carefully wrapped up the shattered tray and melted lid in heavy paper, deposited it into the garbage, then happily placed my new E.O.M. glass cooking tray into my G.E. Profile microwave. Thank you .

This microwave has two separate spring-loaded latch pawls. To get the broken latch pawl off and install the new one you first take off the rectangular plastic trim piece from the inside of the door to expose the pawls. There is a pin that secures the pawl in place. To get the pin out I had to carefully drill a regular hole bigger than the pin with the Dremel tool at the edge of the plastic door piece. I then could extract the pin with a small screwdriver or twizzers. The old pin and spring will come out and you reverse the procedure to install pawl and pin and connect spring. Then reinstall trim piece. I put a small piece of black electricians tape over the hole I made in the door edge. It doesn't show when door is closed and it blends well with the black plastic edge. Test to make sure microwave works and mine did after some carefully fitting of the trim piece.

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

This particular model has 2 hooks that are separate.

1. Remove the plastic trim on the inside of the door. Use a spatula and be care not to break any of the snapping parts. It will come apart.
2. There will be a metal trim that needs to be removed in order to get to the "screw" or "rod" that holds the hook in place.
3. All around the metal trim, there are plastic snaps. Use a screw driver to release the snaps from the metal trim.
4. My metal trim did not want to fully be removed... I was able to release the side where the hooks were and the bottom snaps.
5. Use the needle nose pliers to remove the spring. I found it easier to remove the bottom part of the spring to free the hook.
6. I had to pull on the metal trim enough to get the rod out of the hook so the hook could be removed. Very difficult with one person, but I got it done.
7. Put the spring in the new hook before you install it.
8. Put the rod back in, then the hook, then through the right hole.
9. Attach the bottom of the spring back to the lower hole.
10. Snap the metal trim back onto the microwave door.
11. Snap the plastic trim back onto the door.
12. Move the hooks up and down and feel there is tension. This should probably be done after Step 9.
13. Breathe!!!!

Removed the control panel, one screw at the top. Removed 2 screws on the door switch holder and removed the door switch. VERY EASY.

Very easy replacement by taking off the plastic trim and than the front portion of the door. Unscrew the 2 screws holding the door handle. Both pieces just snap off from clips. Next pull the spring off the latch and slide the pin that secures the latch to the door. Install everything by reversing your procedures when taking apart completing the repair.

Removed one screw, installed new lense in lense frame, rescrewed. Done.

remove cover, unplug secondary door switch (top switch)
remove switch from holder, install new switch, plug in wires, replace cover, very easy. door switches are a common problem
with microwave ovens.

Used a phillips head screw driver and loosened the lens frame under the microwave. Removed the broken lens and replaced it with the lens ordered. Put the lens frame back in place and secured it with the phillips head screw.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

after a couple of misfires, got the correct size tray, and replaced it in the oven.

Removed three screws from the top front cover and slide it out and following I removed the touch panel and the housing that holds the switches and replaced the bad one.