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refrigerator wasn't cooling but the freezer was working properly
From instructions found on the site I was directed to the defrost timer part being bad. And from the information others posted that have had the same problem I was able to replace that part by removing the bottom grill just below the door and on the left side was the part. Removing one screw to remove the bracket from the frame and then another screw to remove the part from the bracket. I found it easier to remove the part from the bracket before I pulled the part out so I would have more room to unplug the connector. Just reverse the steps to replace the new part. It took about a day or so for the refrigerator to get to the proper temp.
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.
I haven’t received the wheel yet. Originally ordered on Dec. 13. Hadn’t received it by Dec. 20. Finally shipped on Dec. 22. Tracking said it was expected to be delivered on Jan.2. Not delivered. Then it said it was still on its way but it was unknown when it would be delivered. Still waiting on Jan. 6. By far the most expensive economy shipping ever, as this refrigerator is in a rental that can’t be rented until a wheel is installed.
Shelf cracked when less than year old. and has gotten progressively worse thru the years. Replaced in seconds , no tools required . I should have done this years ago
You will need a 1/4" nut driver or socket & extension. Remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. Pull of the wires, remove the fan assembly and replace the fan motor.
The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.
After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.
vegetable vegetable pan lid was cracked and I wanted another wire shelf.
The parts came the next day after ordering and I didn't pay for fast shipping. I removed the drawers and the old lid-shelf and replaced it with the new one; also added an extra shelf. I love the new items and they fit perfectly.
The unit cycles but does not achieve proper temperature
Remove power from the unit. With short length #2 Phillips loosen and remove the two(2) screws on the control panel located center top of the refrigeration area. Slide the control panel back about 1/2 inch and allow it to dangle from its wiring harness. Pinch the locking tab on the harness connector with one hand and use the other hand to separate the two sides. A little force is required. Remove the control panel from the refrigerator and shut the refrigerator door. Examine and note the routing of the temperature probe (Silver colored flexible wire) take a picture for later reference. Remove the old and replace with new unit. route temperature probe like the replaced unit. Reverse the steps and reinstall the control panel. It is a good idea to also purchase and replace the defrost timer.
Pulled the door off easily and noticed that the spacer on the Center hinge was ground down to nothing and that a small screw in the bottom plate of the door was half way out. This screw would catch on the cabinet Center hinge bracket and stopped the door from closing. Problem was solved by tightening the screw and putting in a new "spacer" that kept the small screws from contacting the Center hinge bracket. The freezer door now closes like new.