Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
There was no light on in refrig area
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
Fridge stopped cooling, freezer still cold... Saved $250+
First I hired a repairman to fix it who charged $125 to defrost the cooling coils then said the defrost heater would need to be replaced for $125+labor. He had the wrong part and was going to charge me >3x the price it would have been from Partselect.com too. I figure I saved a minimum of $250 vs having him do the work then charge me yet again for the right part.
Should have just done this myself from the start and saved another $125. Information about the cause, how to test and what parts would be needed were all easy to find online once I actually searched.
Unplugged fridge.
Using diagrams from PartSelect.com and other information online anb defrosted coils with hair-dryer. (This requires removing two screws in back of freezer compartment using nut-driver to remove the panels covering coils... literally a two minute job to expose coils!)
Then found and tested defrost heater. Defrost heater was fine. Per information online problem then had to be Adaptive Frost Control (ADA) circuit board.
In refrigerator compartment: 1) Removed top housing cover (covers lights, temp controls, etc.) This required removing a single screw (with nut-driver) attaching it to back and depressing two locking tabs near the back on either side. Slide it forward and down. The only tricky part of this repair is getting the locking tabs positioned correctly to get the plastic cover off. I did break the left one although it cover is still firmly in place in this case.)
2) Removed entire assembly from roof of fridge. involves loosening two large headed screws above lights and removing two hex-head screws with nut-driver above either side of temp controls. Next slide slightly to the right to disengage the two large-headed screws (or remove them completely... it seemed easier to just leave them in place.) Dropped front end of control assembly down.
3) Opened plastic box surrounding ADA and pried open locking tab holding it to wiring. Connected new board and set ADA assembly back in place.
4) Put everything back together.
Plugged fridge in and all was well. Exposed the coils again a few days later and they were not frosted up at all.
Total time to replace the ADA was about 20 minutes. Total time for everything including defrosting coils, testing, replacing parts, etc. was an hour max.
While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation. I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill. Done Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
Freezer Cooling Problems - would get too warm then too cold. Condenser fan would run sometime but not always
Unplug Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill) Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black) Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable. Remove the fan mounting plate Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire) Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit Replace back panels
Bottom of freezer compartment was icing up/freezer was leaking water
UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE BEFORE YOU START> First I removed the shroud covering the lights and controls in the top of the refrigerator side. This was the hardest part, actually. Their are two indentations on the back of the cover and it is really hard to pull that cover off. Anyhow, once you do that, their are two screws, one by each light bulb in the top of the fridge that need to be removed. Their are also three hex head screws that need to be removed, two in the front corners of the assembly, one in the center, back of the fridge. Take those out and the whole assembly drops down. In the back right had corner of the assembly is the adaptive defrost control. Unplug it and set it aside. Plug the new one in. Put everything back together and you are back in business.
simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!
I turned off the electricity, then removed only on screw then lowered the casing that holds the trmp control knobs. The casing hung in place by the wires and I just replaced the the thermostat by holding next to the original and put the 3 wires in the same location. Then unrolled the wire connected to the sensor and put in place of the old one. It was very easy. I had read a previous repair story that said that the food area froze - the same thing happened to me, then it was normal, then no cooling, so I tried this part and it has worked very well, and real easy to do.
Overall, replacing the ice maker wasn't too bad but it wasn't nearly as easy for me as it seems to have been for some. In my case, the fridge was an Amana and the ice maker was mounted in such a way that disconnecting the power connector was difficult. The ice maker had to be completely dismounted before any access to the power connector was even possible. The short power cables made it very difficult to get the ice maker into a position where I had a good view of the power connector enabling me to see how to release it. The only other challenge was the cup that the water line goes into. The replacement ice maker did not come with the right cup - the instructions said to replace the provided one with the old one. No instructions for this procedure were provided and it looked to me like it might involve significant disassembly, something I wanted to avoid for fear of breaking a plastic part on the new ice maker (something I had already done when disassembling the old ice maker). So instead of replacing the cup, I modified the new one to match the old one. This involved removing a cutout on one side and covering a hole on the other. Installation of the new ice maker went fine and the water leak problem was fixed.
R & R Icemaker Assembly. Took out 3 screws and unpluged Icemaker & replaced with new part. very easy and the service from PartSelect was fantastic. Very Satisfied, Ron Martin
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
food inside non freezer part of the refrigerator froze. Adjusting the temperature dials had no effect. Inside temp stayed in the 20s
First, we have to say that PartSelect web site was tremendously helpful. We had misplaced our refrigerator manual. PartSelect's troubleshooting advice helped us target the problem right away, we could see what the part number was and how much it would cost. It was then up to us to locate that part in the refrigerator and figure out how to get it out. Since it is located above the highest shelf, a mirror was required to see what it would take to remove the protective cage. We didn't know if it would snap out, slide out, or fall out once the screws were removed. To get the screws out required the body to twist around and look upward. Once the screws were removed, the cage dangled down by its wiring. The power was then turned off. The part was fitted into place quickly. We have to compliment PartSelect for the informative website and for swift delivery of our order.
refrigerator would not cool but freezer worked fine
I removed the plastic housing inside the top of the rerigerator. Next I removed one hex head screw on the right side that screwed into the back wall using a 1/4 inch nut driver and I removed four hex head screws that screwed up through the temperature control unit into the top. There were two phillips head screws that had to be loosened, but not removed, that also scewed up through the assembly. After the hex head screws were removed, the whole assembly pulls out about an inch then drops down. Once it's down you can remove the adaptive defrost circuit board in the right rear corner of the unit. It's fixed! Thanks
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!
