CREA750ACE Admiral Range - Instructions

Ok this is a glasstop jenn air cce3531b, 5 burners, 11 years old. I am computer data entry employee and 56 years old. I have never done repairs myself in the past but decided to try. I ordered a new burner and indicator light as I wasnt sure which to replace. I found the main breaker and shut it off. I lifted the stovetop out of the counter opening by pushing it through the bottom and placed it on the counter with a towel under it, I had plenty of room to work so that was very easy. I used a nutdriver set to remove 12 screws and lifted off the top very carefully and placed it in the other room , since I had to repair unit thought I would also clean and replace the foam tape around the perimeter of the glasstop. Ok now I unscrewed 4 more screws with the nutdriver and replaced the indicator light, that took about 6 minutes so far. Then I turned the breaker back on and tested and it did not work. Turned breaker back off ,now I replaced the burner by lifting it out of the opening very easily, unscrewed with philips screwdriver 2 screws and the new burner was exactly the same as the existing one so I just slid the old connections off one at a time and replaced them as I went along onto the new burner, screwed it back into place and turned the breaker on and tested it and it worked. I now turned the breaker back off and took off the old foam tape from the glasstop and replaced with new, fit it back onto the base and screwed the 12 screws back in and placed it back into the counter opening and turned breaker back on and now all is fixed and I saved $100 dollars in labor fees. This took 35 minutes and was easy for me. Thanks you partselect

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. Used the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.

I noticed the drawer on the broiler was sliding crooked and found the plastic slides had broken. Of course I thought it would be a hassle and not worth the time to fix it. I would just "live with it". Boy was I wrong, it was probably the simplest fix ever. It was easy to get the correct parts from PartSelect with their exploded and concise diagram. The parts were ordered and delivered in a couple of days. It took me all of 10 minutes with a screwdriver to make the repairs. Now it is a good as new.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Remove screw securing the broken drawer guide. Placed new drawer support in place and tightened screw. Replaced drawer. All done in less than 5 minutes (and cheaply).

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

I got the run around about my HARWICK stove at several part stores. Like they all said the same thing (cant look it up just bring it down) So i did and then they would say, what's the model number. ERR! SO my wife found parts select on the web and they beat the three price quotes I got. First turn the power off to the stove!!! The repair was simple. Just remove the two screws on both side's and pull the element out but just enough for the wire's to show. Disconnect the two wire's and pull the element out. Reverse the processes but when wire's are reconnected squeeze terminals end gently to ensure a good connection. This is a great company to deal with, I will be using them again. Thanks and good luck!!!

I watched the video on the web site and it worked like a dream. Two screws to take out - disconnect wires put back connecting wires and replace the screws again. Just like the video. Thanks

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.

I had viewed the video link on PartsSelect. I removed 2 screws and proceeded to pull element out to disconnect wire connectors. However one side the wire connected was melted on to the contact tab of the element and the wire was broken off. I proceeded to remove back panel from stove and located the exposed broken wire. I stripped back wire and installed a new wire connector that I had in my tool box. I fed wire through small hole. Then I re-installed back panel. I then connected wires to the new bake element and installed element mounting screws.

unplugged power took the back panel off unplugged the 5 wires removed knob by grabbing and pulling off took two screws out of front panel removed the switched put new switch in place and reversed the procedure went very smooth know problem at all any one with any kind of ability should change this switch in know time at all

Went online to find replacement part. (Because I’m cheap) Came across the website, found the part by model number, and watched the wonderful replacement video that was right on the same page as the part. After the part arrived, (in just a couple of days) I put the new one in. Only took a couple of minutes! Perfection! Thanks for making my problem, no problem at all!

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.