The 6in burner would go to max heat regardless of the setting.
Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above
1. Turn off power at breaker. Take no chances. Turn on each working burner, fan, oven light to be sure there is no power to the appliance. Then, turn them off. 2. Pull knob on switch straight out to remove. 3. Remove 4 Phillips head screws under control panel. Pull panel gently down, then out toward you slightly to release top edge. Rest control panel on self-clean lock knob. 4. Confirm terminals on new switch match up with old switch. 5. Use needle-nose pliers to gently remove wires from old switch one at a time and place them on the corresponding terminal on new the switch. 6. Reverse steps 3, 2 and 1. Test switch and burner.
Replaced one of the four burner control switches on my Jennair cooktop. One of the tricks I use to prevent mistakes is putting the new switch along side the existing one and swap one connector at a time over to the new switch preventing any confusion and negating any need to mark the wires. This differs from your video assistant who disconnected all the wires at once. gc.
1. Diagnosed problem = switch at fault not element Made a diagram of wire positions on faulty switch 2. Ordered part = remarkable service! Switch arrived in less than 24 hours 3.Installed new switch 4. Tested appliance = success! 5. Saved $150 and a lot of aggravation Terrific site. Excellent help in figuring out and solving the problem. Two thumbs up!
2 screws to remove disconnect 220 v power use long nose pliers to transfer 5 female spade terminals use nut driver to r@r shaft nut replace panel with 2 screws Turn on power and test!---OK!
I removed 2 screws to release the plate that held four the switces. I removed 2 screws to release the bad switch. I removed one wire at a time and connected the to the same post on the new switch, screwed the switch into place and reinsalled the mounting plate. The stove works fine.
Remove cover plate, install new switch, replace cover place. Replace one wire at a time, a pair of needle nose pliers may be helpful. Surprise of this job was that I had a torque screw driver (I think that's what it's called) to remove the switch from the cover plate. These are the screws you'll see after removing the knob. Find that driver before you begin, mine was in the garage and for the life of me, I can't remember why I ever had one in the first place. Thanks for a great web site!
Really easy ...followed advice posted from others with same problem. Before anything disconnect the power at the breakers and use a voltage detector to verify there is NO POWER!!!! Only need to remove the two phillips screws on the four controller panel, Slide panel away from you to access the controllers. Match wire/connector for connector from the old to new controller. Reassemble, restore power .. Happy wife!!!. She has been on my case to fix this thing for several years.
The switch would not turn off the range. The switch just kept turning but nothing happened.
I removed two screws that held the switch plate together. Then I removed two screws that held the faulty switch to the swtich plate. I then unpluged one wire at a time from the old switch and pluged it into the new switch. Reattached the switch to the switch plate and then reattached the switch plate to the stovetop. Bingo! Everything worked beautifully. It was so easy and I saved ~ $100.00 by doing it myself, as opposed to a quote that I got from a local repairman.
I remove fore screwsfrom the front panel. Then remove two screws to remove the switch and removed the wire plugs then put everything back together again.