CHG9800BAE Maytag Range - Instructions

Well Got the part within 3 days. Followed instructions to install it and it worked. One thing you need to add to your kit is replacement mounting screws (2 nuts and bolts). It turns out that the original burner because of its age, had a hard time unscrewing it. The screws were very tight and ended up stripped. I ended up using a Dremel  tool to cut the screws off. By now the holes were a little bigger than original so I had to put it back together with a nut and bolt that would fit the small hole. But overall this was my first repair and I would definitely order from you again. Your site's part search and documentation with video clarified it wonderfully. Great service and site!

Barry

Punched out broken screw. Drilled out damaged threads to same size as igniter mounting holes. I used nuts, bolts and lock washers to mount igniter. Would have been very easy if mounting screws had come out. Video very helpful.

Note the position of the electrode on the side of the old burner cap. Turn the old burner cap one-eighth turn counter-clockwise to loosen and remove it. Raise the burner cap and disconnect the push-on connector wires from the ground and electrode. Clean the surface and connect the electrode and ground connector wires correctly to the new burner cap and place the burner cap back in the opening, positioning the electrode at the same orientation as it was with the old burner cap. Turn the cap one-eighth turn clockwise until the burner is snug. Turn on the burner control to test that the burner functions correctly. Make sure there is no smell of propane or gas when the burner is not in use which might indicate that the burner is not properly fitted snugly.

I pretty much did the repair the same way the video described it. I first turned off the gas valve and disconnected the power. Then removed the two screws holding in the burner tube and removed it. Then I unplugged the old igniter. The screws were a bit corroded so I gave them a little spray of liquid wrench. They came right out them. After removing them I replaced the igniter plugged it in. Then I put the wire through the hole in the wall of the oven. Replaced the insulation that was included in the kit. Replaced the burner tube on the venture. And reinstalled the screws. It was pretty cut and dry. The glow plug had the burner fired up in 15 seconds.

Went well

Unscrew the burners an install new ones! Anyone could do this.

I just twist the burner, pulled it out, disconect the two wires. Reconect the wires to the new burner and placed back .

Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!

I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and replaced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

I Lifted the oven door from the hinges and removed all the screws to get to the broken glass pane, since the oven door is in layers I taped the screws close to where they belonged, so that I could screw everything together again in the right order..
The last time this happened to me(!!) I brought the door to a repair man and hadto pay 200 dollars , I saved 150 Dollars doing it myself!

replaced heat sensor

It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!

My brother is a handyman. The part was delivered very quickly. The instructions were very easy to read and after an hour, voila the oven works perfectly!

My husband simply twisted out the old burner with a pliers and attach the new burner. Simple and easy....