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door catch would not latch
Well tried to find this simple part around Columbus and even maytag website no luck.Parts select had it to go and arrived earlier than expected.Fixed it less than 5 minutes works great.taken longer to put the light bulb back in,Really like the accuracy and quick response from parts select.If I had called a service tech probably would have cost $50.00 or more for a part that cost a little over $3.00 and saved this site in case I need to order other parts.Thank you
My 11 year old daughter broke the door clasp to the dryer by repeatedly slamming it trying to get it to close. I told her to go down stairs write down the make model and serial number and come back up and find a place to buy it online. I left with instructions not to use the computer for anything else until the part was found. Less then 15 minutes later I came back because I heard giggling. She was chatting but had found an exploded view of the door and the part. She was very pleased with herself! We bought it and it arrived a few days later. I saw the empty box. She had opened it and taken it down and installed it herself. A good lesson, for her and me
Removed the front panel of the dryer and drum to replace the rollers. You will need a snap ring pliers to remove the locking snap ring holding the rollers, replaced rollers, installed new drum belt and replaced the front dyer panel. Tested the dryer no more noise.
First I removed the two screws that held the timer in place. then screwed the new one in place. I then held it to one side and swaped the wires one at a time [8wires] so as to insure the wires were in the correct location. Replaced the cover and dials and it works good as new. My wife thinks i'm the greatest. Thanks,Tommy
Door would no longer stay closed enough for dryer to run
popped out the old, broken female latch, popped in the new one in less than 30 seconds. We had been leaning stool against the dryer door for 5 years. Now it works exactly like it is supposed to.
remove the housing under the dryer door. take out the lint trap. I took the whole bottom off the dryer to easily get to the tensioner pully. I then loosened the tub and slid off the old belt and replaced it.
The old door catch broke and fell into the unit. Ordered the new part which arrived fast and snapped it into place. Perfect fit and the door now closes/latches correctly - like new again. Would recommend your web site to all do-it-yourselfers. Loved browsing your site, especially seeing all of the schematics and parts list for my unit.
This would be an easy job, if I were to do it again.
I needed to download a manual only to get ACCESS to the machine. Removing the outside lag bolts did NOT provide access.
They had hidden clips that were ENTIRELY invisible from the outside. I believe this was done deliberately, to prevent those who don't know the specifics about this machine from gaining access.
It's an easy job, once you know the idiosyncracies of the construction of the machine. It's a major pain in the ass if you don't, even if you are used to replacing belts in other dryers.
Having done it once, the next time I could do it in under 20% of the time it took me the first time.
The dryer door on my mom's Maytag SG1000 (washer/dryer stacked unit) wouldn't stay closed; the latch had finally broken. The replacement kit includes both the female latch and the male striker. I replaced both even though the old striker was still good. The old parts were easily pried out and removed with a small flat-blade screwdriver. But what the PartSelect website, and the other "repair stories" found here, fail to mention is that the male striker is held in place with a small metal "door strike retainer" plate that falls down into the door as soon as you pry off the striker. You will need a small Phillips screwdriver to take the door apart and retrieve the plate. After snapping the new striker into the plate the door can be reassembled -- a simple job that only takes a couple of minutes.
dryer has been making a squealing noise when it was started
To start the repair, I removed the two front panels. Disconnecting the wiring to door and light. Next removing dryer drum and drive belt[ allows access to belt tensioner] replace tensioner roller, then reassemble. Dryer works fine
Lifted the top of the dryer removed two screws and pulled the front of the Dryer forward. Slipped the new belt over the drum and over the motor pulley. Pushed the front back in place and snapped the top of the dryer down and the job was complete. I thought the part would take three days to get here. It was delivered the day after I ordered it.
Took off the two lower front screws, Then the screws to take off the door and frame. Then the lint trap. Finally took out the drum. BOY WAS MY DRYER DIRTY WITH LINT! Vacumned it all out and washed the filter and filter housing with soap. Found out that I needed tension wheel also. Ordered that. Replaced the wheel, that was the hardest part. Need to take off this part like a "spring washer" and put it back on with the new wheel in place. Then placed the belt on the drum, belt on the tension, screwed the drum holder frame on, screwed the door frame on, screwed the lower panel on and it works great. By the way I am a female and if I can do it anyone can.