CCR467B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

We followed the instructions on the video after receiving our part - they were perfect instructions and led us right through the repair. I have to say it would have been harder to do with one person - but probably doable.

Easy as Pie.

First I moved the left rear burner to the right front. No change. Then I moved the burner units from left to right, No change. I guessed it was the control switch and ordered from PartSelect. Turnaround time from PartSelect was excellent.
I turned off the powerr to the range. Removed the screws holding on the front panel and then pulled the panel out far enough to see behind it. I located the faulty control switch and then held the new switch, next to it, and turning to proper orientation. I then, one at a time moved the wires to the new switch. After that it was mount the new switch, put the panel back in place and turn on the power.

I removed the cover plate for the burner switches and verified the wiring on the other switches. I had removed the bad switch a few years ago and I needed to make sure that the wiring was correct. I did not keep the original screws that hold the switch in place, because I destroyed them when I first removed the old switch. The were corroded from years of cleaning solution. I made new screws from longer wall socket screws by shortening them with a hacksaw. The entire process took about 30 minutes to do, and the results were good. The new switch is smoother than the others, but functions exactly the same.

James is an electrician so he istalled the part himself

We lifted the glass top, uninstalled the old burner and installed the new burner in it's place. It worked right away - and is still working. No other tricks the new burner was a perfect fit.

Just followed the instructions on this site... :) Unscrewed the front, removed old unit taking care of which wires went where, put in new unit. Voila.

Your site helped me determine the problem. You included a video of how to do the repair. The replacement of the parts went just as expected. The parts came quickly and were the correct parts. I could not have asked for a better experience. (I replaced two switches because the knob was loose on the othe one).. Thanks.

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.

Unscrewed three screws securing the glass top. Lifted glass top and wedged it open. Took a picture of the current wiring. Removed old burner.Compared male contact points on new and old burner. Plugged new burner in appropriately. Note: The new burner is MUCH hotter than the old one.

First turn off the power to the stove/oven. Next I removed the 4 screws located on the bottom surface of the control panel. You need to open the oven door to see/access them. The control panel can then be removed by rotating the bottom outward which allows the flange on the top to disengage. Next remove the two screws that hold the switch to the control panel. Note which wire goes to which spade connector. A quick photo can help. Undo the wires. Remove the old switch. Reinstall the wires. Mount the new switch to the control panel. Mount the control panel back into the stove/oven. Turn on the power and test. The burner now works as new!

Removed the cook top from the counter. Removed the switch housing and then the switch. Found a match and ordered. Part came in 2 business days. Once I put together the housing and connected the wire housing the burner worked perfect. The downdraft fan remained on. Placed a call to Jenn Air service and was asked to disconnect the fan switch. There must be some memory in the solid state portion of the switch. After a few mins I replaced the fan switch and hooked up the wiring. All worked fine.

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.