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Condenser fan motor seized
While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation. I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill. Done Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.
Freezer Cooling Problems - would get too warm then too cold. Condenser fan would run sometime but not always
Unplug Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill) Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black) Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable. Remove the fan mounting plate Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire) Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit Replace back panels
I removed the panel in the back of the freezer and found the evaporator to be a complete block of ice. I defrosted it with a hairdryer. Following advice from the Partselect web site, I measured the resistance through the defrost heater. It was about 30 ohms, so I decided that it was OK. Next, I advanced the defrost timer manually with the compressor on until it turned off. The defrost heater did not operate. I concluded that the problem was the defrost thermostat. After installing it, the freezer worked properly.
simply removed old motor and replaced new. I'm over 82 and it was hard to get down and up to floor level!! One thing was a little puzeling -that was to insert the right screws which had a nitch in the end of the threds to keep it from loosening- I thought I was spoiling the threds cause I had to use a little pressure to start the screws and thought I had the wrong screws--they had sent several sets of them for different name brands- but II got it and everything seems to be allright - Could you tell me if I could purchase a replacement compressor and some refrigerent -the new kind. thank you, George Erlandson Only if my comp. goes out!!!
door seals were badly distorted and did not seal in cold temperatures very well
I removes all food and drink items from the refrigerator and freezer doors. I then removed all of the screws holding the inner panel of the refrigerator door to the door itself. The old gasket could then be removed. I placed the new door gasket in place around the inner panel and reinstalled the inner panel with new gasket onto the refrigerator door. I then removed the inner panel from the freezer door and then removed the old gasket. I placed the new door gasket in place around the inner panel and reinstalled the inner panel with new gasket onto the freezer door. I used a portable drill with a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove and reinstall the many screws that held the inner panel and gasket on the doors.
Grabbed the handle to open the door and it broke just above the bottom connectionbove the bottom connection.
Went online with Google, and located PartSelect. The locating of the part was simple, in that the instructions to find the part were very explicit.
After ordering the part, it arrived within two days. We were delighted!
Opening the box and seeing how well it was packed was gratifying. With a screwdriver the new handle had the name plate on, and screwed onto the door within 10 minutes.
It was a perfect fit, and a pleasure to have things in good shape again.
Refrigerator worked, Freezer only getting to 29 degrees
Because the refrigerator worked (38-40 degrees) and the freezer only got down to 29 degrees, I thought that the freezer thermostat had gone bad. Changed it out but results are the same.
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!
First it required defrosting since the cooling area was solid ice. Note that I replaced the defrost timer first and no difference. I pulled the icemaker and racks out, then removed the door by removing the 4 screws with 1/4" nut driver. One of the sliding drawer tracks must be removed in order to get the back panel in/ out easily. The 4 screws were easily removed with my nutdriver. The screws are not all the same so keep track! Next remove the 4 screws that hold in the vent assembly where the cold air shoots out (center). Remove all of the remaining screws in the panel in the rear of the freezer compartment and pull it out. The themostat is on the right side with 2 wires and a clip that holds it on to the coolant pipe. Pull it off of the pipe and locate the connector - 5-6" from the thermostat. Pull connector apart without damaging the wires inside. Install new part the same way the old one came out and reassemble in reverse order.
Freezer coils covered in ice - Refridgerator and freezer quit cooling
Removed screws on back cover plate in Freezer, disconnected fan assembly, removed fan assembly, removed propeller from fan assembly, and transferred it to new motor, installed new assembly, reconnected electrical connections, screwed on back cover plate - Viola!
The Freezer defrosted and everything on the top and the bottom spoiled
i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.
I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson
I had a terrible time getting the retaining clips on the grille. Almost broke the plastic area they fit onto. They must use a special tool to get them on. I did however finally manage to get them on without destroying the new grille.......
