BISW42ELE General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The operation is very simple on this valve. I disconnected the water lines and wires.
Then two I removed the two screws attaching
valve to the ref.box.
The reinstall is just the opposite from removal.

Easy. First, unplug the fridge.

1)Shut off then disconnect water line.

2)Remove water valve mount screw.

3)Disconnect electrical plugs and snip water lines (square cut lines for new valve).

4)Simply insert and seat water lines into their respective places on the new valve. Using adapters as needed, reconnect electrical plugs.

5)Mount valve and reconnect water line.

6)Turn on water supply and check for leaks. Possible leaks: water line or not fully seated lines to the new valve.

7)Restore power and enjoy :o)

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

Very quick and easy repair. Took off cover to access valve using standardr screw driver. After shutting off water supply to valve disconnected copper water supply line. Used a large towel to catch any residual water in line. Removed two water lines on valve use plies if more than hand tight to loosen. Removed screw holding valve in place, removed valve and disconnected wires (be sure power to frig is off least you get a shock. Reverse proceedure to install new valve. new valve has simple push in connections for plastic water lines. Install two electrical adpaters and electric lines. Mount valve with screw, connect copper water line. Turn water back on and check for leaks. Turn power on and check for proper water running at dispenser. Again check for any leaks. No leaks, install cover and you are done.

Received the first water valve with very poor included instructions. Watched the suggested instructional YouTube for my part installation which was very well done except my new part was not identical to my old part or the one in the YouTube. A translucent plastic housing on the part obstructed the installation so I needed to trim part of it away with a tin shear before attaching the part to the refrig. The waterline attachments were slip fit rather than what my old part had with compression nuts. I replaced all the plastic water lines using the slip fittings, turned the water back on and- all fittings leaked. Undid the fittings, trimmed the water lines and reattached- still leaked. So I contacted customer service who sent out a new part and followed the above procedure and everything went quickly with no leaks. I suggest you replace the two plastic water lines ( you will need to buy two slip fittings and two diameter lines) these are available at Home Depot. There is also a YouTube for this and it is a must see. My main supply line to the refrigerator is copper tubing. I trimmed the end of the tubing, filed it smoot, steelwooled the surface and installed a new brass compression ring befor reactching to the valve. Note, because of the first leaks, I found it easier to make all my connections including the electrical, plug the refrigerator back in and active the ice maker and water dispenser before reaching the valve the the frig back. Good luck.

Since I really needed to replace the deteriating auger I used the original ice bucket and transferred the new auger assembly into the old ice bucket. Looked complicated at first, but make it work and my refrigerator is now making nice clean ice. It would have taken a lot longer if I sent the new bigger ice bucket back and it was my fault. With the videos and pictures on line made the replacement of the auger & ice bucket easy. Thanks Bill

Followed the instructions in the video, which showed our exact refrigerator. Very easy instruction, for a simple job. However, it did not fix the problem. At this point I suspect a faulty replacement part (which cannot now return), or some other issue requiring further analysis. Could also be that the original Inlet Water Valve is not at fault, which means that this high probability fix (70%) was not needed.

I opened the freezer door and removed the access panel, then with a phillip screwdriver,I removed 1 scew and used a pair of pliers to pull the wires off.I then reversed the prosess.EASY

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

I unplugged the refrigerator. Pressed the tab near the light bulb. Unplugged the socket and reconnected it.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

We only needed the rear plastic cylindrical helix. After installing it, there was a squeal of metal on metal due to insufficient clearance between the rear moving blade and the Ice dispenser plate.

Refrigerator Ice Maker 7/16” (or ½” hole, stainless steel) washer just behind #334 Rear Moving dispenser Blade PS292310 to give clearance so it doesn’t hit #345 / PS292441 Ice Dispenser Plate.

This was my first time at doing this so it took longer than someone experienced. But, it worked!

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

1- youtubed the potential diagnoses, 2- resourced and ordered parts, 3- removed old socket, installed new one :-)... My fridge is an older fridge and could've used a screwdriver for eyeglasses. Plug and play easy... YAY!

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!