BA8200 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I watched a sample repair on YouTube and read the instructions that came with the part. All went as planned/described.

Removed door panel to get to the electric control conponents and noticed a burned wire to one of the door microswitches. Ordered the door switch repair kit from PartSelect. Also, ordered and replaced the thermal fuse at the same time since it was only $12 and didn't know if that blew at the same time the switch cooked. I had the parts coming standard delivery (3-5 days), but they arrived the very next day. Parts included easy to follow directions.Job went pretty smooth and the dishwasher works again Good experience!

Shut off water supply, unplugged washer power, removed supply hoses from old washer valve assembly, removed valve mounting plate and removed old valve assembly from mounting plate, diagrammed and disconnected hot and cold solenoid valve wiring and removed valve assembly outlet hose. Installed and connected new valve, performing the preceding steps in reverse order. pressurized new valve, verified valve function and checked for leaks and placed washer back in service.

Removed front panel, removed bolts from the front of top panel, lifted. Removed hoses, then 4 screws from siphon break at top right rear of machine, removed siphon break. Installed replacement siphon break and secured with screws. Put some dish soap in hoses and slid them into place and tightened clamps. (It is necessary to move the top panel up and down at various times in the process to do all of this.) Then secured the top with the front bolts. Then installed front panel. Tested the machine, no leak.

Loosened the hose coupling, removed the old washer and strainer; cleaned the opening; flushed the opening; installed new strainer and washer; reattached hose and "Bob's your uncle"! No problem.

pulled the washer drain hose off and replace it with a new one. it was so stiff it would not flex properly. Probably 30 years old. I broke the Syphon Break elbow because of the stiff drain hose. unscrewed 4 sheet metal screws where the Syphon Break Elbow goes through back of washing machine. opened the access hole for my arm below - 1 screw. reached up and pulled broken part out from the inside approx 12- 16 inches above. Slid the new part into place. remounted the 4 screws hold connection together. recovered access hole and attached new Drain hose with a band clamp. The new hose had 3 different size ends that can be cut to fit. I had to cut down to the smallest diameter hose. (1 inch, 1.25, or 1.5 inch). Ten to 15 minutes tops

Took off front washer panel push drum to one side reached in took out four screws on back of washer removed siphon break from ebow for drain hose pulled siphon break to front of washer cut hose clamp installed new part reversed procedure to put washer together Tested operation worked fine no leaks no water on floor wife very pleased with fix Thanks again for fast delivery and great inventory of parts

Unplug washing machine.
Disconnect water supply hoses.
Remove valve service panel, 1 screw.
Remove valve from panel with wires attached. 2 screws.
Remove water outlet hose from old valve.
Mount new valve to panel. 2 screws.
Attach water outlet to valve.
Move wires from old valve to new valve.
Dress wires.
Reinstall valve service panel, 1 screw.
Install new wire braded supply hoses.
Done. Hope to get another 20 years of service.

Washer is enclosed in a walled partition. I spent more time moving the washer out so I could get to the back of the machine. Due to Maytag's design of a removal sheet metal panel holding the valve the entire water valve replacement was performed outside of the machine. The replacement valve was an exact duplicate and made it a simple swap out. More time was spent removing inlet hoses and outlet hose then in actual valve replacement.

First turned off water and unplugged washer. Removed hoses and then removed bracket. The new part needed the bracket from the old mixer which was no problem - 3 screws. Removed electrical plugs from old mixer-placed on new one.No problems - worked like new. Thanks for your prompt shipment and the good illustrations of the parts when I was searching.. Also, half the price of local parts houses and it would still have to be ordered.

Took out 2 5/16" screws and loosened top and took off two ground wires and 2 hot wires for cold & hot water solenoids and removed & replaced solenoid wires and fill hose. Also Had fantastic delivery of parts.

Removed the four screws that hold the part and also loosened the screw for a cover. Moved cover to gain access to inside of machine. Removed broken piece and replaced. Tightened screws and replaced plate. No leaks.

Diagnosed the problem and ordered the part online in about 15 minutes. Part arrived about 3 days later. I followed the directions that came with the part and VOILA! washing amchine fixed. I unplugged the washing machine. I unscrewed the the screws at the back of the machine. Pulled out the faulty part and disconnected the electrical wires. Connected the electrical wires to the new part, and screwed it back in. In less than 30 minutes, I was done.

First, I opened up the back of the machine to see the way the water got into the tub. I turned off the water at the pipes, unplugged the machine, and disconnected the hoses from back. There were no leaks with the hoses, so I looked at the part that managed the water flow when operating and went on line to find the part.
I found it and then ordered it from partselect.com. I got it two days later. I looked at how the other part was connected to the hoses and reused a clamp. I recommend getting a new hose clamp to make fitting it faster. I felt great after I got it to work, so that we didn't have to buy a new washer (the part was only $26). I think that Repair should be added to Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle.

Disconnected the hot/cold water hoses. Removed screw that holds water valve in place. Removed two screws that hold valve to metal plate. Disconnected wire terminals from old valve and installed on new valve on the same spades. Disconnected water discharge line by loosing screw that hold line on valve, reattach to new valve. Removed old valve from plate, installed new one with the two screws to plate, then put in place and put in screw that hold valve in back of washer. Connected hot/cold hoses and fired it up and noisy water eliminated. About 30 minutes and back in service which made the wife happy that her washer was quite again. Thanks!