BA3910 Maytag Washer - Instructions

First I looked it up on the computer and clicked on Part Select's page and it came up with the part needed and then I watched the video on installing the part. It was easy to follow their instructions and the repair was made. I was so pleased with everything I ran across a man in the hardware store this morning and he was having cloths dryer trouble that I told him to just click on your site and the rest would be easy. He said he would do that. In fact I took the Wife out to dinner on just part of what money you saved me. Thanks, Harold

Oh no! Imagine my shock and horror when I pulled the wash machine away from the wall, and the hose stayed behind...my dear wifey is going to be furious!!! I immediately informed her of this issue, and after ducking some thrown laundry, immediately went on partselect.com. Thankfully I'd ordered the siphon break kit earlier, so was able find the elbow immediately. I ordered it next day shipping, and it arrived one business day after. I undid the nuts around the siphon break, opened up access panel in back, removed the siphon break, installed the new elbow, reinstalled the nuts carefully (tightened one at a time going around the elbow until they were all tight), and then recovered the access panel. Viola, piece of cake!! Happy wife could now resume her laundry duties.

Install new siphon break connector: 1. Loosened the clamp holding the drain hose in place on the elbow at the rear of the washer. Removed the hose from the elbow. 2. Removed the round upper access plate on the rear of the washer. 3. Removed the 4 screws holding the elbow in place, thereby releasing the siphon break connector and internal drain hose inside the washer cabinet. 4. Reached through the access port, grasped the siphon break connector end of the internal drain hose, pulled it through the access port. 5. Loosened and removed the clamp on hose, then removed the old siphon break connector from the end of the hose. 6. Installed the new siphon break connector onto the hose, clamped it in place, then returned the hose into the washer cabinet through the access port and positioned it onto the elbow, tightened the part down by reinstalling 4 screws at elbow on rear of the washer and then reconnected/clamped the external drain hose onto the elbow and replaced the access port cover.

Followed the video on how to replace step by step. It all went perfectly except the hose clamp needed to be replaced. Used a small screw automotive clamp.This Maytag is 35 years old and still ticking.

pulled out wash/dry stacked combo unit from cubbyhole (this was the hardest part) . Shutoff both hose supplies, turn off power to unit.disconnect power cord @ coupling. Disconnect both hoses @ machine and drain into pan. Remove old valve assembly,take note of what wires go where and disconnect. Remove filler hose from valve. Install new unit in reverse order but using new hose washers and be carefull not to cross thread the plastic threads and only tighten as much as needed to keep from leaking. Have bought from these people before and they are SUPER. Had the correct part in LESS than 24 hrs. and for a reasonable price !! Sam

Be very, very careful not to cross thread the filler hose, onto the nylon valve housing. Recommend some lubrication, and a pair of velvet gloves.

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

Moved washer away from wall. Removed rear panel (4 screws). removed hose bracket (1 screw). use vicegrip to "open" hose spring clamp. Removed old hose, slipped spring hose clamp over new hose. "Opened" spring hose clamp put new hose over washer drain, released vicegrip. Assemble in reverse.

Had to take the back off to replace valve

I did it per the video on line and was a snap.I don't have issue recomending the web site to my freinds who want to do repairs themselves.

I didn't expect a problem, but watched the video anyway, it was right on the money. Make sure to use a new clamp for the hose.

very well . it was very easy 20 min.

Removed fill hoses, inlet valve cover,valve mounting hardware,hose to tub,unplugged electrical connector.Installed new valve in reverse order.

First check that the screens are not plugged. There are fine screens in the mixing valve and at times you will find them in either end of the inlet hoses. Not a hard job if you can get to the back of the machine, just a few small screws, swap the wires to the new part and swap the outlet hose from the valve and screw it back together. Wife will think you are a wiz kid.