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Stove top element not working due to bad receptacle.
Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit. My sister's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts. The element is working great now. Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
Burner was out but the burner coil worked on onother burner
Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.
Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.
Removed 7 screws on sides and one on top of stove. Replaced both springs (only one was broken but did both). Took around 15 to 30 minutes from start to finish.Fastest shipping in history during holidays without paying anything extra.
Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00 Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine. Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.
First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!