ATG175NCD1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

I called the repairman who diagnosed the problem as a thermostat then had to order a thermostat took about 2 weeks to get back and install (cost little over $100). did good for about two weeks and same problem reoccured. I decided it was defrost timer and ordered from this site for $19.95 including shipping. I got on ( you tube ) and got instructions(recommend you tube) for DIY install about 15 to 20 minutes. Has been running great for about 3 weeks. ( YOU TUBE IS GREAT FOR A DIY REPAIR ON ABOUT ANYTHING)

I should have read everyone else's experiences before attempting. I did view a youtube video and thought I had it set. However, if I had it to do over, the door would have been removed. The door shelf (inner door) taken off and cleaned before attempting to put the gasket on. I did it while the door was still attached and probably lost a good 45mns along with my fingers cramping, knee's flat spotting, and lower back catching fire. TAKE THE DOOR OFF if at all possible, you wont regret it.

Loosened the two mounting screws (no need to remove them), lift off the icemaker and unplug it. Reverse the order and done.

But I have back ground mechanical skills, I did see the video one time, and everything went smooth......

Had to reach right hand to top of ice maker to locate hex head screws by feel, then place nut driver onto hex head by feel and then unloosen screws with lft hand ,a couple of turns, enough to lift ice maker off screws.
Replace new icemaker onto screws and tighten screws. The only problem incountered was the location and availability of having to feel with both hands to fit nut driver onto the screws.(could not see with my eyes because front of ice maker blocked view. )

Real simple repair..just backed off the two 1/4" hex bolts holding the ice maker to the wall of the fridge,(a little tricky since you can't see them),unclipped the electrical doo hickey. I re-clipped the electrical do hickey of the new ice maker, hung the ice maker on the bolts and then re-tightened them. However,still no ice,my problem was the water valve on the back of the fridge behind the cardboard. Although it was still giving H2O thru the door it was not allowing water to flow to the ice maker. I reccommend pouring some water into the ice tray of the ice maker. If it makes ice and dumps it in to the holder, your ice maker is OK. If it turns out to be your water valve, that fix is easy as well. I HIGHLY reccommend watching the "fix it" video associated with that part. That repair also took less than 15 minutes. Good Luck! KC Bridgewater,NJ

I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.

removed all items from frig.. removed shelves, loosened one screw on each slide bracket and moved them down and out of the way of the rear panel....removed 6 screws in rear panel...removed all ice on coils with a heat gun...located defrost stat, replaced...crimped wires...re-installed rear panel and shelves! On left side of frig. in front bottom..located defrost timer..removed trim piece, loosened 2 screws....removed and replaced defrost timer...plugged in the frig. and it started!!!!

I just had to make certain I had the correct end-cap for the correct side. I placed the two little curved pieces into the slots and applied some downward pressure (gently) onto the end-cap till I heard it "snap" into place. You could then see that it was held in place securely. I did first one side, then fed the bar into it, then placed the other side onto the the bar; inserted the end-cap and secured it in place.

HINT: I myself mistakingly ordered the same exact end-cap for both the freezer and the fridge doors. I was unaware (I failed to check), that the end-caps for the freezer are not the same end-caps as the ones for the fridge door. My refrigerator uses three different end-cap sizes; one size for the actual fridge door and two additional different sizes for the freezer door. Not wanting to exchange it, I used the one I ordered anyway. It still works, but makes the bar protrude into the freezer more than it would have, had I ordered the correct size.

SPECIAL NOTE: This company got the correctly ordered products to me within a couple of days. I would definitely order from them again without hesitation. I am very happy with the product and service. Smooth.

First I determined the icemaker was the problem when it was no longer calling for water. You can hear that "whistle" for 6-7 seconds when it calls for water. Anyway, replacement was a piece of cake, but did not entirely fix my problem. I also had to flush the lines to the soloniods that allow water to flow through the filter and into the water storage tank because it was cloggged with a little piece of plastic.

Removed power , unplugged wires and 2 screws then reversed the process 1 hour later first batch of cubes dropped into bin

My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.

Turn off power. Remove ice tray. Back out the two screws with nut driver and just lift ice maker off screws. Do not bend the water fill tube in the back . Now unplug the wire and remove ice maker .
To replace, match the color of wires on plug. Adjust wires in place and water fill tube and back on to the screws. Hold in place and snug screws. Turn power back on. In 4 to 5 hours your ice will start .
FED-EX UT to MN was 13 days to deliver .

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

I removed the two side mount screws with a screwdriver and disconnected the electrical plug to the ice maker to remove it. I reversed the process to install the new one.

It was the thermostat that was the problem, but I chose to replace the entire ice maker for only $25 more.