ART6002W (P1143686N W) Amana Range - Instructions

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Removed back panel, unplugged sensor, removed sensor from inside oven (2 screws), replaced with new part.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

Discriptions provided by others in this section made it easy and there is little additional insight I can add. The part was delivered the next day. I don't reply to these requests for comments, as providing what I paid for is the expectation. But, this outfit did a good job.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Pulled cooktop up on Counter top and unscrewed the screws around around the cook top lifting the glass top off to get to bad burner.then disconnected wires from old burner lifting burner out and sitting new burner down in the cut outs. I have used parts select for my refrigerator,microwave and oven I can't say enough about how great there website is as well as there service.they have made a customer out of me for life and I have turned a lot of friends on to the site and they love it as we'll.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

the burners were located underneath the glass top, but i had no instructions on how to remove the glass top, so i spent an hour taking every screw off. finally i realized the glass top lifts off from the front then the repair became super easy. hard part was replacing all the screws, lol

I had already removed the old hinges by removing the screws/bolts and removing the broken hinges from the back side through the drawer below the oven that I had already removed. Took the new hinges and screwed the two metal screws into the top hole on the new hinges after placing hinge in vise, one screw on each then removed them and placed them to the side. Determined the right tap from my tap set, and then tapped the bottom two holes on the new hinges, one on each. Placed the bolts that came with the new hinges into the holes I had just tapped, screw them in, then I removed them and placed to the side. Took hinges and bolts / screws to the oven, inserted hinges in through the drawer that I had removed up to each side where hinges would come back out to the front of the oven. Placed screws / bolts one at a time through oven door frame into the hinge on the back side, and then threaded them into the hinges and tightened. Replaced oven door onto new hinges and checked for correct operation. Door works like new.

I read instructions and hints online. Then, I pulled the range out from between the cabinets and unplugged it (carefully). I used a small Philips head screwdriver to remove the 10 metal screws holding the large metal sheet on the back of the oven. Then I removed the 4 screws holding on the metal sheet on the upper level of the back of the range since it had to be removed to move back the big sheet metal away from the back. The large metal sheet has the power cord threaded through it on the bottom and I left that in place. I then removed the oven door by lifting it up off the hinges after I removed the screw on each side that held the door on the hinges. The door is quite heavy for a girl. I unscrewed the plate at the back of the broiler element, unhooked it from the hangers, and carefully pulled the connectors apart from the oven wiring and the dead broiler element. (Being completely unfamiliar with this kind of connector it took me some time to figure out they slid apart.) Following advice online I had used electrical tape to tape down the wires so they wouldn't slip backwards out of the oven. The new broiler element connectors slid smoothly and easily into the oven wires. I removed the electrical tape I had used as temporary holders, hung the element on the previous wire slings and removed the new wire slings for a backup. I screwed back the plate on the new element into the back of the oven wall. I used the part number orientation on the element to make certain I had it right side up. If I have to do this again it will be easy and take very little time. My biggest problem was getting the oven door back on because it was heavy for me and I was too short to be able to see what I was doing as I repeatedly tried to get the oven door and hinges aligned. Eventually the door was back on and screwed down. Everything that had been unscrewed was put back in place and screwed down tightly. The oven and broiler are working perfectly.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

Ordered hinge, went to Sears bought some tools to finish manufacturing the hinge, tapped out the screw hole, installed the hinge.

My husband did the repair. It was so easy that I could have done it. He had to remove 3 screws and then hook up the element. Nothing to it!!

The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.

Take top cover off take gear box cover off. check all gears for wear and clean all of above. Be sure you identify all parts needed before you order plus assembly grease!