ARS2666AC Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!

Remove the back hardboard cover screws for access to the condenser fan. I opted to tip the fridge over on its side for even better access to the fan mounts and wire. Replaced the fan assy (reused the fan). Splice the wire and it's done.

First I removed the Ice bin, I then loosened the ice bin rail under the ice maker and removed the screw that attached the bottom of the ice maker to the side of the fridge. I unplugged the power to Ice Maker from the back of the fridge and unscreewed the two screws that secured the ice maker to the fridge. This allowed the Ice Maker to be removed from the fridge. To replace the new ice maker I simply repeated the steps in reverse.

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installing the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.

I was not sure what the fix was on my refrig, so I ordered the defrost timer kit, bimetal defrost thermostat, and the evaporator heater(about 100.00 in parts)
I think my entire problem was the bimetal defrost thermostat, as it was somewhat bulged out on the plastic side.
The evaporator coils would freeze over--the evap. fan would not work and the cold water dispenser would not work. I did't have time to just replace one part at a time so I ordered all three parts that have to do with the defrosting of the evap. coils.
The parts worked and the refrig. is operating fine. Thanks to parts select for a super fast delivery(one day).

First of all, I do not have a history of repairing appliances or even the knowledge of what all the parts are named or how it all works. That said, please excuse my other than technical explanation of the repair. After reading a few posts, I decided to order the two parts and give it a try. The Defrost timer was easy to remove - two screws to remove the housing and two screws to remove the timer. The bimetal defrost thermostat was an easy installation - after removing the cover plate (back of freezer section) I removed the two wire caps that was connecting the existing thermostat to whatever it connects to - I guess the heating element and ? I was a little confused because the replacement thermostat had more wires that the existing one. I decided to cut away the extra wires and connect it just like the old one was connected. I didn't work at first and I was about to call in a pro. I turned the defrost timer knob and everything started to work. It has worked beautifully since and I got to brag a little to my wife - that was short lived because she reminded me of the other "stuff" that needed to be fixed! Thanks to the folks that posted before me - it helped me understand the problem and the repair.

Water was dripping out of top freezer door and had water under the refridgerator. I could hear a clicking noice from bottom of refrigerator every 3-5 minutes.
After removing back panel, I noticed the fan was running and the clicking seemed to be coming from somewhere around the compressor which was warm. I noticed on the site a simular problem had been submitted. It said to remove the start relay and if it rattled it was bad. I removed two wires from it ( it is connected onto the side of the compressor) then took a small screw driver to pry it away from the compressor. It not only rattled but had tiny pieces falling out. I ordered the part and replaced it in less than 15 minutes total and all is well.

The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

I removed the plastic cover from the top hinge and loosened the screws. The magnet seal kept the door in place so I removed the top hinge and tried to lift the door off the bottom hinge but the water line wouldn't let it go. Since I don't use the water feature, I just cut the water line and lifted the door off. That's when I discovered the hinge pin was actually broken off, not just the cam. I went ahead and replaced the cam kit and put it temporarily back together, got right back on line and ordered the bottom hinge. The service was again very fast and in a couple of days I received the bottom hinge, repeated the whole process again and this time replaced the bottom hinge assembly, put some petrolium jelly on the cam kit and now it works smooth and perfect.

First I removed the knobs, then the plastic cover over the thermostat. Then, I removed the two screws that hold it on. I removed the thermostat, unplugged the electrical leads, and pulled out the old thermostat. I then inserted the new one, hooked up the leads and reassembled.

turned water supply off, unhooked both set of
valves, reinstalled them, tested operation.
one valve on primary had to be capped also.

I pulled the whole unit(condenser&overload relay)
with my hand & disconnected the wire connected
to it & Replaced it with the new one.Peace of cake.

Took longer to move food from door to inside fridge & take grandkids' artwork off door, & then put it all back than it did to replace cam.
1. Used phillips head to undo 1 screw holding cover over top bracket; lifted off cover.
2. No need to have someone hold door while you remove top bracket; magnets in door gasket will hold it tight to fridge. Used socket to remove 3 screws in top bracket & lifted bracket up off top of door.
3. Door's not heavy. I stood on a sturdy chair to get better leverage. Opened the door enough to break the magnetic seal & llfted it up off bottom bracket. I moved it over just enough to get to the cam, rested the bottom of the door on the floor, & leaned it up against the open front of the fridge to help preserve chilled food.
4. Removed the 1 screw holding in the bad cam to the bottom bracket (uses smaller socket than screws on top bracket).
5. I checked part that goes up inside bottom of door & it was fine, so did not replace it.
6. Trickiest part: putting the door back on. I put a hand mirror on floor by the right corner & facing up so I could see the underpart of the door as I lifted it eased it down on the right place.
7. Closed door, made sure it was straight, replaced top hinge & cover, food, & artwork.