ARR3400L (P1143495N L) Amana Range - Instructions

TURNED OFF POWER TO STOVE Removed 5 Knobs, 2 screws that held bad switch.
Removed 4 screws and lifted panel up and forward to expose switches. Adjusted spring tension on knob stem to hold knob ( stem in new switch slightly smaller) removed wire from defective switch one at a time and fastened to new switch in sequence. Reassembled and turned power on. Defective switch had stuck contacts making it full hot.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I removed the two screws and pryed out the old hinge. I then put in the new hinge. The new one fit well. I went to screw it in with the supplied screws. The screws not only did not fit the hole tapped in the hinge (too big, different tread) but both screws were different from each other. They were different sizes and different types all together. I tried re-using the screws from the originol hinge but they also did not fit. I then got my own self tapping machine screws and finished the job. This job should not have been that hard. If they had supplied the correct screws, It would have taken all of five minutes.

To replace a bowl lift burner slightly (1") then pull gently until it comes out. Remove bowl, replace with new bowl. Insert burner by pushing gently yet firmly, place down into clip.

To replace indicator light, remove panel from back of stove.
Locate light indicator switch, push indicator lens through front of stove, hold in place (may require a second person) slide switch unto the nub of plastic on the indicator switch. Repeat for each broken indicator lens.

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

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I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

This wasn't a "repair", but I got an email asking for my story, so here it is. :-)

I followed the owner's manual instructions by pulling out the burner elements, lifting up the old drip bowls, setting in the new ones, replacing the elements.

Removed the door and old hinges and reinstalled the new hinges and added some screws to better support the door ( it was bending a little at the middle and the door would not shut all the way. Now it works fine.

Top (broil) element broke in two on oven. Ordered part,it was there in three days. Quick fix, removed screw holding element to oven wall, unplugged wires, then just swaped out elements. Re-attached wires just as they were on old element and screwed back into same place and oven is working again.

A Home Depot employee advised me on how to enter all my oven information found on the front of my oven on parts.com. I submitted parts information as stated, also very easy. My parts arrived 3 days later. I used a screwdriver & pliers, it took less than 15 minutes. Very simple and the entire process from order to installation went like clockwork. I would definitely order in the future. Thank you.

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!