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Oven would not heat
I went ahead with the repair after reading how easy it was. I located the wires which were spliced, held together with wire nuts and wrapped in black insulation tape which did not feel right. Not realizing that these were ceramic heat resistant wire nuts and not wanting to cut the connector off the new ignitor I tried in vain to find a way to disconnect the original from it's source. In vain I searched for a way to reach where it plugged in. Looking for diagrams on line I came across one mention of: when you can't reach where to unplug the connector splice the wires using the heat resistant wire nuts. Encouraged I did that without the black insulation tape and then tried to slide the ignitor into the protective housing. The filament broke! I was devastated. Out $50.00 plus ego deflated I called PartSelect and bless their soul they sent me a new one under warranty. I didn't even have to ask for it. Their turn around time was the same as before and within two days not counting the weekend the oven lit like a Christmas candle. Thanks to all before me who shared their experience. Curious though why no one mentioned the splicing method.
Remove the cover over the burner, two screws at the rear, this exposes the burner tube cover, one nut at the center. Three screws will remove the holder for the igniter. I had to remove a sheet metal cover underneath the oven( pull the drawer out) to gain access to the plug for the igniter. A good tip on this is the same valve controls the broiler and the oven, if one works and the other doesn't, it's the igniter. If neither works the gas vale may be the problem.
Oven either would not come to set temperature or took a very long time. Gas would flow to burner for only short times. When burner was lit, flame was often low. There was often the smell of gas.
Symptoms were sign of bad ignitor based on Goggle searches. Removed screws holding burner and ignitor to range. Disconnected ignitor at green connector below oven with lower drawer removed. Then removed burner and old ignitor. Reinstalled burner and then new ignitor being sure burner was still seated on gas outlet. (Note-burner removal may not be necessary) Replaced two screws attaching ignitor to oven wall and two screws attaching burner to floor of oven. Oven works perfectly now.
After on-line research i realized the igniter failed.
Replacing the igniter itself was a simple matter a few screws holding its housing and then plugging the new one into the connector. Difficulty came trying to figure out how to access the igniter. Disassembling the floor of the oven was a dead end involving many screws. Pulling the unit out from the wall was a big job and another failure. The problem was solved with the removal of the drawer. Underneath, in the rear was a sheet metal plate held by 2 screws. Behind that hung the igniter connection. Voila! Job done.
The earlier reviews said very easy and 15 minutes for beginners. They were right on, except I could not get the old screw out no matter what I tried. I eventually had to drill it out and put in a self tapping new screw. This was a first for me. Then it took 15 minutes or less and works fine again. Hopefully next time someone will tell me how to get that old screw out faster.
I replaced the Oven Igniter. With a ohmn meter I checked the resistance on the Igniter and there was nothing there. I figured the module had to see some kind of resistance to turn the gas on. The Oven now works after replacing the Oven Igniter, but the Broiler still will not light. I will check the resistance on the Broiler Igniter and see what is going on there. The Igniter can be checked from the back by removing the back cover panels. The two igniter wires come out through the back of the oven and have heat resistant covering on them. They run into a plastic plug and can be accessed at this point to check the resistance. To remove the Oven Igniter, remove the oven racks, the bottom panels which are held on by screws. The Oven Igniter is attached to the gas rail which is attached to the underside of 2nd panel by two wing nuts.
Took bottom oven pan off accessed through oven storage drawer.Removed a few screws holding the igniter bracket,removed igniter from its holder(Be really,really careful doing this procedure because the igniter tip is verrrrry fragile,ask me how I know)Put it all back together and Voila,it works!This is so easy a job a caveman can do it! Good luck!
1. Removed drawer 2.Removed back panel (2 screws). 3. Disconnected power line from old igniter 4. Removed 3 screws holding old igniter. 5. Replaced with new igniter. Works like new.
Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).
Wow, ordered the part here and it arrived in 18 hours!! Job was fairly straight forward but the screw holding it in place was corroded and stuck. Several heating and cooling cycles with a torch and some spray lube and lots of patience and I finally rocked the screw lose.
No problem removing the burners. Removing the old initors was a different story. The tiny screws that hold the ignitor in place were baked in and could not be removed with a screw driver. I drilled them and tried to use an easy out to no avail. The screws are very short so I had to use care not to drill thru the burner. Both screw heads did snap off. I resorted to a hi temp epoxy to secure the ignitor flanges to the burner and now the all burners ignite as designed.
I slid out the oven burner disconected the old igniter and replaced it with the new one & slid back in place and connected the two wires and I was back in business. The job was relativly an easy one.
Although this was not a repair I wanted to let you know your service was outstanding and the price quite reasonable. I am very happy to finally have a much needed second rack in my oven that was not there when I purchased my home. Thank You
