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Oven doesn't start
Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!
Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC
Researched through this site to find part numbers and names. Youtubed it to see how to install the part. Ordered the exact part via this site and received it in only a day or two. Installed it in less than 15 minutes and the oven works amazing. It gets up to temp quickly and holds temp better than it has in years. Very satisfied!
I removed the cartridge from the range and used a screw driver to remove the screws holding the burners assembly in the housing. (Some prefer to remove the burner from the top by removing the two screws, but I've had trouble realigning the parts that way.) I removed the ignition wire and the screw holding the bad electrode in the burner. I then installed the new electrode, attached the ignition wire, put the burners assembly back into the housing, and put the housing back into the range.
Removed burner with attached igniter assembly by raising forward legs from slots and pulling unit from rear support. Note: this is contrary to instruction #1 on installation instructions. Then followed the remaining instuctions 2 - 7 as written. Everything worked as planned.
All four Spark did not ignite or only once and a while
Unplugged the stove, removed all 4 burner discs from the stove top (2 screws each- WATCH YOU DONT STRIP HEADS) and disconnecting electrode wires ( DONT HAVE TO- IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO SIDE TOP UNIT OVER), unscrewed the old module, removed each of the 6 wires,one at a time and connected wires to the new module. Plug in stove to test before you screwed it into place, reinstalled the top unit , put the stove top in place,. Done!
shut off gas at tank, pulled stove out from counter area to gain acess to back, removed oven door removed removed screws holding igniter unit in place, i then removed the stove rear panel to get at the wiring for ignitor,remoded old part returned to front and installed new part, checked voltage then re-connected new wires, turded gas back on and tested oven, oven came on less than a minute, put rear panel on stove put door back on and put stove back into counter area, stove works like new.
Removed oven grills and top of burner pan. This exposed the igniter. Removed 3 phillips head screws from igniter bracket. Slid old igniter out the back end. Removed utility drawer. Removed two screws from back pan covering igniter plug-in. Unplugged igniter, removed from range. Handling of igniter is tricky..do not touch black end. Slide new igniter into the bracket, feed wire with connector through hole in back (where igniter was removed from), install the three screws for the bracket (your new igniter is now secure), from the bottom, plug in the new connector it only goes on one way. Re-install pan with two screws. Put utility drawer back in..job is complete!!
Very simple process of just ensuring you have the correct size racks and remove the old racks and replace them with the new ones. Having ordered a lot of things on the internet, I am very pleased with using Part select and would "highly" recommend them to all!!
Racks would fall off of the tracks when the broiler was used
I ordered new racks to see if they weere out of alignment. The new racks fell from its tracks after the broiler was heated. It seems the oven cabinet is expanding with the heat and the rack width does not compensate for that. The new racks did not solve the problem so I do not know what can be done next. Any shelf support would have to be heat resistent. Replacing the oven cabinet is not a good option and no gauantee it wouldn't continue with this stove.
the oven would not heat. The ignitor would heat up, but not enough to allow the gas valve to open.
The repair was fairly straightforward. The drawer below the oven had to be pulled out and the panel in the rear (looking from the front through the opening where the drawer was) was removed. It was then a matter of removing two screws and unsnapping the wire connection. And then replacing the igniter.
I pulled the racks out of the oven. Then pull the plate off that covers the burner. There is another shield with a nut on it that covers the burner. Removed it. The ignitor is mounted on the back of the burner, held by 3 screws, remove them. Pull the bottom sliding drawer out completely. (you have to lay down for this). There is a metal plate in the very back held with 2 screws, remove them and pull the plate out. You'll see the 2 high temp wires (White) with a plug connector, simply unplug the connector and you are ready to pull the whole ignitor assembly off the burner. The ignitor ceramic base simply slides out of the sleeve. Put the new ignitor in the sleeve and put everything back together. It's pretty simple. This is the second ignitor I have installed in 2 years, hopefully I'll get more life out of this one. Good Luck.