ARB224RCW Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

We ordered a PartSelect PS2121513 ice maker. I was concerned that there was no instructions shipped with the unit. Fortunately, PartSelect had an online video that guided me through the process. It wasn't that complex really. The only time I felt totally dumb was when using my nut driver to remove the bottom bracket. I couldn't figure out why there was no 1/4" socket with my set, so I used a small socket wrench instead. I finally figured out that the driver was already a 1/4", without a socket in it. After that it was easy. Slid the ice maker up a little to free it from the top mounting screws. Pulled it outward a bit to gain access to the connector at the back of the freezer, then squeezed the two sides of the connector and out it came. I popped the plastic cover off the existing device and then removed the connector as instructed in the video. I also removed the bale (as per the video). I put the connector harness, plastic cover and bale on the new ice maker and put it back in, this time using the nut driver on the bottom bracket :-). My only concern after that was that it didn't seem to be working. I had no idea that it needed some time to get cold before it would work. After about an hour, it filled with water and began making ice. Success.

turned off the water supply,disconnected the power from icemaker to the back wall,loosened the two screws on the top,and one screw on the bottom.removed old icemaker.took the bale off,to put on the new icemaker.removed the wire harness from the old,to put on the new icemaker..saved over $200 for the repairman,had a full tray of ice in 6 hours.(watching the video,helped)!!!!!,very thankful for your service,as most of my appliances are all in that ten year period,i will be ordering more as needed.

Empty out freezer loosen two top screws and took out bottom screw. Lifted out ice maker and unplugged wire. Took bailing arm and plug and put on new ice maker and reverse the process. Had ice in three hours and no leaks.

The repair was simple. It was a matter of unpluging the old relay and then pluging in the new one. I almost bought a new refrigerator but after doing alittle reading on this web sight and finding out the most common reason for having the problem I was having I decided to order the relay. It was the problem...$ 70.00 -v- $1400.00. I'm HAPPY !

Removed wiring from old ice maker and install on new. With 2 screws all ready in place hung ice maker on them. Attach wire connector into socket and install bottom screw to hold ice maker. Tighten top 2 screw and put wire guide in place. Drop wire guide down and ice started in 10 mins

I have an Amana fridge on top freezer drawer on bottom unit don't have the model # handy. First unplug the unit. Then remove the cover on the refridge compartment cooling control knob complete with the lights and all. There is a video on part select that shows removing both this cover and the rear cold air inlet cover but if you are careful you don't have to remove the rear cover. That was done to allow removal of the plastic pulley belt that goes from the control knob at the front to the actuator gear at the back. I just popped the front cover and let it hang gently from the belt and then simply unscrewed the timer (screws on the underside so you have to snap the light cover off first). Then you can very quickly unplug the old timer and plug in the new one, reinstall the screws and pop the whole thing back into the roof of the fridge. Not sure if that was the only problem so I opted to replace the thermostat as well. This is in the freezer compartment behind the back panel. I had the ice maker on the left. First you want to remove the drawers and Door of the freezer leave the drawer slides in you can simply lift the drawers and door front up and out. Then push the slides back in. Next you have to get the ice maker out of the way. Just remove the three screws holding to the wall of the freezer and unplug the electric line. It has a plastic plug that disconnects easily. When you get it out the water fill hose will be sticking through the back wall of the freezer. Now just remove the 4 screws at the corners of the back freezer wall panel. Then you can grab the panel top and bottom center and pull it. It will bend enough to spring clear of the drawer slides on either side. Mine was frozen in place and needed some heating with a hair dryer. Once it let go it came out easily. Next I had to defrost the whole coil behind it was solid with ice including the thermostat to be replace. The thermostat was in the upper right corner. Looked exactly like the one in the kit. It is clipped to the copper refrigeration line. Just unclip it. It has two wires color coded brown and orange. Can't screw this up. The replacement just had stripped end wires. Would have been nice to have electrical plugs to make replacement a plug and play but not. Just cut the wires to the old one leaving a little to work with in the freezer. You can always cut it shorter if you need to. Then just strip the wires in the freezer and wire nut the new one in with the wire nuts included and wrap with electrical tape then reclip the new thermostat to the copper cooling line same place it was before and go backwards to put everything back in and plug the thing in.That's it. It will take a while to cool down and you won't here the compressor right away some type of time delay I guess. Its been a week now and works fine. Much cheaper than having a guy come to the house. Think of it this way once your done your beer can get cold again!

Move refrigerated and turn off water and unplug elect. Remove ice Ben and guide on right side. Move one screw on the bottom and lousen tow screws on top. Remove ice maker to unhook electrical connection. Transfer parts from old one to the new one . Revise the removal of it and when done .Plug in cord and turn on water. If you have done everything very carefully you will have ice in a few hours.Good luck.

Took out freezer door and shelves. Removed back panel. Spliced wires for defrost and connected new part. Been a couple if weeks and fridge is like new again.

Removed fill tube and replaced it with new.

You just take the back panel off (8 screws with hex heads), disconnect one wire harness, pull off the relay, and push on the new one. Easy peasy. Getting the wires off was the only tricky part, they clip in place so you have to pry the retaining clip loose. Unfortunately, it turns out our compressor is shot so replacing the relay did not fix the problem.

My 8 year old Maytag side-by-side started having a buzzing sound coming from the compressor area that lasted around 8 to 10 seconds which was followed by a "click" sound. It would repeat every 3 minutes or so. From what I read, the Overload/Relay with Start Capacitor was the likely culprit. I got it replaced tonight but unfortunately, the same problem is occurring. The downside is I likely have a bad compressor (not worth replacing after cost of parts and labor) and wasted $60 on the Overload/Relay with Start Capacitor. Partselect's service though I would say is top notch. I received the part within two days of placing the order and my order confirmation email even had a link to a youtube video detailing the installation. That was very helpful. I just wish I was looking at a $60 fix vs a grand for a new fridge! Oh well, live and learn....and no more Maytag.

Once I received the new icemaker, I removed the old one by loosening the two upper screws and removing the lower. The wire connector came out easily. The wire and the bale from the old unit had to be transferred to the new unit. Then the new unit was reinstalled and the wire plugged back in. It took several hours for the cubes to begin dropping.

These plastic storage refrigerator racks can break relatively easily. Fortunately, the replacement of the center crisper rail is very easy. Just remove all the food items from the flat shelf above the crispers. The flat shelf (glass in our model) comes out as well as the crispers. When you remove the shelf and crispers, the center crisper rail is replaced by turning the frame upside down. It fits right in and is secure when you turn the frame upright. Don't try to make this replacement in situ, too many fragile plastic tabs that can possibly break.