AOES3030E (P1132379NE) Amana Wall Oven - Instructions

I ordered new racks to see if they weere out of alignment. The new racks fell from its tracks after the broiler was heated. It seems the oven cabinet is expanding with the heat and the rack width does not compensate for that. The new racks did not solve the problem so I do not know what can be done next. Any shelf support would have to be heat resistent. Replacing the oven cabinet is not a good option and no gauantee it wouldn't continue with this stove.

Very simple process of just ensuring you have the correct size racks and remove the old racks and replace them with the new ones.
Having ordered a lot of things on the internet, I am very pleased with using Part select and would "highly" recommend them to all!!

Loosen 6 screws holding pan containing element.Pull element and pan towards the front of oven.Remove the 2 wires attached to element.Remove 2 screws holding element to pan.(Needed WD 40 to loosen screws).Replace in reverse order.So simple this caveman could do it!

I just replaced the racks with beautiful, new, shiny racks. My wife was very pleased

Bought a new one. . Three years later =)

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

ordered new broiler pan

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

TURN OFF BREAKER PROVIDING POWER TO OVEN

First I tested the oven thermostat after removing the two screws attaching it to the back of the oven and pulling the thermostat out far enough to unplug it. I tested the thermostat using a multi tester set for testing OHMS. The test meter read 1080 ohms indicating that the thermostat was OK. I reinstalled the thermostat after plugging the wires back in and carefully feeding them back into the rear of the oven then replacing the two screws previously removed.

I then removed four screws holding the oven in place (Located inside on both sides of the oven - easier to remove oven door first) I slid the oven out being careful not to damage the pigtail providing power to the oven. I had studied the schematic and found a fan control located on the right top of the oven under an access cover. Remove the screws holding this cover in place (about 10 or 12 screws)slide cover off and this exposes the fan control. It has one red and one blue wire attached to it. This fan control should not have continuity when at room temp. I checked continuity with the multi tester and the fan control was on at room temperature. This fan control should not have continuity unless the temperature is around 200 deg f. I replaced the fan control by removing two screws holding it in place and unplugging the two wires connected to it. (BE SURE POWER IS TURNED OFF!!!) Reconnect the two wires to the new fan control and reattach the two screws holding it in place. Replace the access cover, slide oven back into cabinet and reattach using the four screws. Replace oven door and re-energize power to the oven. It takes a few minutes for the oven to get hot enough to turn on the cooling fan. (The cooling fan IS NOT the same fan that you can see when the oven door is open-that is the convection fan the cooling fan is visible through the top vents over the oven door)

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

I went online to learn what F-3 meant and it said temp sensor malfunction. I ordered the part - it looked the same so I repaced the old one and then the plugs were different. I cut the plug off the old sensor and cobbled together a connection. I powered up the stove and the burners were ok, but the oven appeared dead. about an hour later the alarm went off and it displayed F-1. I figured I needed to order another part, but hit Oven cancel and the display lighted up. I set the clock, heated to 400 and made a tray of cornbread. It seems to work ok, but I need to make a better arrangement. perhaps cut the new part connector off and splice the old connector. I don't like having electrical tape so close to the oven - it will probably melt with much usage. It is working - for now!

Removed the old sensor which is held into the upper right of the back of the oven by removing the two screws and pulling the sensor out. Then disconnected the sensor from its connector. Replace the old with the new by simply clicking it into the connector. Then pushed the wire back into the oven wall and screwed the two screws back in. The whole job took about one minute to do after evaluating the process. While it was not necessary to remove the door, I did (which was very easy) and ended up cleaning the glass inside and out. All in all, a complete success. Oven working as new.