After shopping all over town trying to find a new tray I discovered PartSelect.com, I called and ordered the tray and received it the next afternoon. It couldn't have gone smoother.
The nightmare was that this microwave is installed under the cabinet....in order to get to the light bulb I had to pull out my stove then squeeze into the space between the stove and counter....my old microwave light bult was much easier to change.....Shame on Whirlpool for making this so difficult.....must be a better way to cover the light bulb so that we do not need a screwdriver to remove the door to get to the light bulb
1. I went to the internet to find the service manual for the Maytag microwave. 2. I opened up the oven and started measuring the resistance of the diode, capacitor, transformer, and magnetron between terminals and then to ground. The transformer and magnetron were well within the resistance limits. The diode was shorted in both directions(+-). The capacitor was fully open in both directions -- high resistance. 3. I ordered the 2 parts, installed them, and ran the oven. Worked perfect first time. 4. Reinstalled oven and worked ever since (1 week so far). 5. The secret was that the transformer had a load hum. I figured the transformer was OK. The magnetron had no short between filaments and ground to filaments. The only two left were the diode and capacitor. The first two are about $200 -- almost the value of a new microwave. The $70 repair was well worth it. If the first two were still bad, then tempted to buy a new oven.
Microwave worked intermittently depending on how door was closed
Remove top grille (2 screws), undo control panel (1 screw). Tilt down control panel, switches are on the left. There are actually three switches that are involved with the door, two horizontally mounted, one vertically mounted. This would be an EASY REPAIR, but it took me a while to figure out which of the three switches was bad, and also took a while to figure out that there is a plastic rod that inserts through the hole in the switch body. Once i figured this out went like a breeze. Lower horizontal switch was the bad one, but since the kit came with two switches i went ahead and replaced the upper horizontal one as well. IT appears that the horizontal switches are probably more likely to fail than the vertical switch based on the position of the switch and force angles. Works great now!
FIrst I removed the glass bulb cover, old bulbs, and old filters. Then I removed the 6 screws that held the lower cover in place, and bulb sockets. Then washed all parts an reassembled with new bulbs and filters.
It was a piece of cake....slid filters down and out, replace with new filters, slid down filter openings slightly and pulled filter up in to place. Done in less than one minute.
Removed broken pieces. Ordered new glass tray. The tray came with excellent packing and double-boxed so there was no damage in transit. All I had to do was place the new glass tray onto supports in the oven.