ALG866SCW Amana Dryer - Instructions

I am not mechanical so if I can do it so can. UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST!There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer itself remove these and take out the brackets that are held by these two bolts, I used a socket, lift up and peek in to the front top you will see two screws that hold the other side of the top of the dryer lower the back side and move to the front of the dryer now that the back bolts are removed. Take a large screwdriver and place a dishrag or handkerchief so the flat side is inserted where these screws are located{preventing scratches}pry upward it will seperate the top of the dryer from the front of the dryer move over to the next screw and repeat now the top is loose and can be slid backwards until there is room for you to see down in front of the dryer, notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side, take the time to write down there color and in what order they are located as you will have to remove these now inside the front panel from the top about a third of the way are two bolts, one on the left and one on the right use the socket to remove these now pull the front panel to you and lift up, the front panel will now come off set aside. remove the three screws that attach the plastic vent from inside the dryer,pull out plastic vent, vacuum out dust and lint install new plastic vent install the three screws from inside the dryer drum and reverse the process you are finished!

Open bottom panel and observed back left drum roller wheel wobbling and obviously making the loud rumbling banging sound. Search goggle for Amana model part -- found partsellect.com, and read the list of other DIYs:

Take off the lower and upper front panels (two screws
each);

Remove the front drum glide holder (four screws. Careful
here because of the two wires to be removed for
door open off switch;

Pulling drum forward only enough so the bad roller wheel
would come off shaft after removing shaft snap ring
keeper;

Grease new roller hole and old shaft then place the
new wheel roller on shaft;

Replace all items back after cleaning lent off.

Note: Snap ring was a bit tricky (need snap ring pliers)--make sure it is clipped back all the way on the shaft after new wheel is installed. Also, I thought it was a good idea to put something underneath the dryer drum to support it while it was slightly pulled out -- a block of wood, etc. I found a spot remover plastic bottle that wedged up to support the dryer drum enough to take pressure off the belt during wheel replacement.

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

Removed top of dryer and front panel. Keeping the front door closed I was able to start the unit and observe if the gas was igniting to heat the unit.
Found that no flame was present.
Examined the ignitor (found the locatino after utilizine this website parts diagram) and noticed it was cracked.
Ordered the new part and it arrived two days later. Simple installation and ta daaa....ignitor works, hot dryer again.
*Only reason it took over half an hour was because I cleaned out all the internal vents while the unit was opened.
Basic mechanical abilities required here but remember to unplug the unit while working on it!

Ordered new lint filter, which did not quite fit. Called company and was told that filter had been redesigned to remove the felt surround, and that sometimes the new filters did not seat well. It turned out that the exhaust pipe was filled with packed-down lint causing the new filter not to go all the way into the slot. My husband surmised that that was why the first filter broke because volunteers at the Humane Society adoption center were trying to shove the filter into a groove that no longer worked. He took off the top, the front, and one other piece before removing all of the lint he could reach. Once that was done, the filter fit fine.

Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.

first i checked the power supply then i checked each of the switches and limit fuses for continuity.
to do that i had to take the front of the drier off, four screws there. then i removed the bad limit switch 2 screws,the door switch was bad so i replaced it, no screws. since i had the front off the drier i removed the four screws that held the drum in place and replaced the belt. assembled the drier in reverse order when the parts came. 1/2hour total labor.

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

I inserted the clip

Removed bottom door panel, four screws. The new part was a slightly different (looks like improved) part, so only had to put two screws back in. Very simple. The only reason it took more than 15 minutes was because I cleaned exposed areas while the panel was off.

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .