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ALG331RMW (PALG331RMW1) Amana Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ALG331RMW
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Dryer squealed when first starting for about 3 minutes
Disconnect power. First, remove the lower front panel, then the upper front panel (disconnect door switch wiring). Remove two screws holding the top panel to the left and right side panels. Remove wiring connections to light and humidity sensor. Remove four screws to front drum support assembly, lift up to disengage tangs, and remove assembly. Reach in and find the idler assembly for the drum drive belt, and unwrap the belt to loosen it, also removing the belt from the motor pulley.. Slide the drum out the front of the dryer along with the drive belt. Remove the snap ring (using snap ring pliers) and washer holding the idler pulley on to the idler assembly. Remove the idler pulley. Polish the shaft with fine steel wool to get rid of dirt. Clean thoroughly, leaving no steel wool residue. Install replacement pulley, washer, and snap ring. Reinstall drum, taking care to feed belt back into place as the drum is reinstalled. Reach in and wrap the belt around the motor pulley and the idler pulley. Reinstall the front drum support by lifting the drum slightly to allow the support to engage with the drum, and then drop it down to re-engage the tabs into the left and right side panels while reseating it into the blower intake. Install the four screws to hold it in place, and reinstall the wiring for the light and the humidity sensor. Attach the top panel to the left and right side panels with one screw for each side. Reinstall the upper front panel, including reattaching the wiring to the door switch, with two screws. Finally, reinstall the lower front panel. Reconnect to the power source, and you should be good to go.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing Retaining Ring Thrust Washer
  • Theodore from Madison, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer was making a grinding sound
I opened new parts and stcuk a felt pad on each glider and put one of my 10 lb. weights on it for about 1/2 hour to help it stay in place.

Then removed top panel and then the front..There are three phillips screws that hold the lint catcher in place inside the barrell. Then remove the 4 total bolts to remove Glide Brackets.

Mine was so worn down that the barrel had rubbed alomost all the way through a bracket.
Once felt pad was firmly set, i attached glider into bracket and installed them.

Put everything back in place and started up..and it was running and sounding like new...i paid 27.00 for parts and saved big time compared to what a service shop would have charged me.

The shipping was super fast and with my wife and i having 9 children in the house it was a life saver for us.
Parts Used:
Drum Glide Glide Bracket Kit Single Drum Glide Felt Pad
  • Todd from Red Lake, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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very bad screaching noise when drum was inmotion
First we had to virtually take the entire dryer housing apart - not very user friendly. We found that one of the two mounting screws on on of the rollers was gone. The mount was just wobbling around which caused the roller to fail and all of the noise. The wheel removal was a bit tough since there is very little room to pull it up and off of the center post. Definately need at least one helper to pull up on the drum while the wheels are removed and installed. Once the two new rollers were in place, the dryer worked like it was new. Not an easy job, but very do-albe - saved a ton of money doing it myself. Two must - haves: good set of snap ring plyers and one patient helper.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing Drum Support Roller Multi Rib Belt
  • ROBERT from RICHMOND, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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The belt that turns the dryer broke
The front of the dryer needed to be taken off, the drum needed to be taken out and the belt installed on the wheel structure.
I was very pleased at how fast I received the part after ordering it! I will definitely use this site again when ordering replacement parts!
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • Pamela from Sanbornton, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Belt on drum was sqeuling on start up
Had to lay dryer on back. Cause it didn't have a back cover had to take the front door off and go in thru the front. Had to take the vent off. Had to use scotch tape to hold the belt in place while I got it on. It would have been a lot easier if they had a back cover. I only hope I don't have to do it again as it squells a bit on start up. Bill
Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt
  • William from Mendota, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Belt noise/slipping even after replaceing worn motor assy
Unplug dryer. Remove lower panel.Remove dryer lent duct. Remove Thermostat fm fan housing. Remove Fan.Remove Fan housing. Remove Motor assy by sliding out, wires lay toward front, allowing room to replace idler pulley and spring. Use lock ring pliers to remove pulley from shaft. Grease pulley/shaft w/high temp grease [I used ultra-hi temp ceramic brake grease-can get in small packets at auto stores].Noise/slippage has all but stopped. Lesson: replace rear rollers and front felt/glides. Belt looseness also caused by worn rear rollers [smaller overall diameter from age]-even though they spin freely
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing Idler Pulley Spring
  • Greg from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dryer was making an awful noise.
I first removed the front panel and door on the dryer using a 5/16th nut driver. I needed to disconnect the light and switch to remove the door. I raised the top lid of the dryer to expose the drum. I rmover the fan schroud and lint filter by removing 4 5/16 screws with the nut driver. I disconnected the belt from the idle tension pully and removed the drum. The drum support rollers were visible on the back frame of the dryer. I removed the bad roller using snap ring pliers. After cleaning the roller support shaft and lubricating the shaft with grease I replaced the drum support roller and secured it with the snap ring. I also replaced the dryer belt although it was still workiing. I reasembled the dryer after giving the inside a cleaning with the shop vac. The hardest part was getting the belt secured with the tension idle pulley. When assemblying the fan schroud make sure it is snug against the fan so it doesn't leak. Replace the top and front door and cover connecting the switch and light. If you get the switch wires correct the dryer will run with the door shut otherwise reverse the wires.
Parts Used:
Drum Support Roller Multi Rib Belt
  • Wilford from Long Grove, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer was making squealing noises
It was pretty simple, really. Quite honestly, Parts Select was the first website that had my model number listed, and even had a diagram of the dryer. Once I removed the covers, it was very obvious that the belt tension pulley was bad, One side was worn away. I ordered both parts, the new pully, and the tension arm with the bearing, since I had no way to tell which was damaged, causing them to bind. They simply bolted to the motor assembly. The hardest part was reassembly. Getting the front panel on and being sure that the tabs holding it in allignment, and that the drum spun freely was really the only concern. The repair took less than 1 hour, and after seeing the inside of my dryer, I am convinced I can easily replace ANY part of this appliance and keep it running as long as I can find parts.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing Idler Pulley Lever and Shaft
  • Ted from Lakeland, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench set
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loud squeak/grinding noise
Used a dolly to move the drier out in the garage to give myself some room to work...remove the bottom panel--2 screws at the bottom...remove the door--2 screws at the bottom of the door, disconnect the 2 switch wires and then it slips out of the top....remove 2 screws from the top and swing the top all the way back out of the way---it'll just hang there.....remove the front drum support--4 screws.....slide the drum forward while working the drive belt off of the drum.....you can now see the 2 drum support wheels.....at that time I got my shop vac and got all the lint and crud outa there......remove the snap ring on each wheel, slide off the washer and wheel, pay attention--the wheel has a front and back.....reinstall the new wheel with washer and snap ring (i put a small dab of grease on the wheel support)....I also put a dab of grease on the belt tensioner wheel support--same little snap ring retainer.....reinstall the drum by sliding it in slowly as you work the belt back into place....install the front drum support--roll the drum by hand to make sure your belt is on properly.... resecure the top, then the door, and finally the bottom....when facing the drier my left wheel was in way worse condition----this is obviously because it is located right in front of the heating element....thanx and good luck....
Parts Used:
Drum Support Roller
  • Troy from Huffman, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Door switch broke
Just follow the video. The hardest part is getting the top to disengage from the clips.
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • Howard from NEW ROCHELLE, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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Won't Tumble
Removed lower front panel.

Removed door assembly* making note of the wire positions on the door switch
* When removing the door assembly DO NOT LET IT DROP DOWN! Doing so will destroy the door switch. Swing the door assembly upward from the bottom toward you as high as it will go then pull it free.

Removed the drum and belt assembly.

Removed the idler pulley and idler pully spring.

Vacuumed up the interior dryer floor and blew out the motor w/ comp air. Also cleaned the ribbed motor pulley with a nylon brush and brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.

Removed the drum tires and cleaned their shafts and internal bearing sleeves with brake cleaner sprayed on a shop towel.

Reinstalled the drum tires after lubricating their shafts with a very light coat of general purpose grease.

Replaced the idler pulley and idler pulley spring after cleaning and lubing shaft and pulley bearing as done on the drum tires.

Reinstalled the drum with the new belt (ribbed side down) roughly in place.

Reinstalled the front door assembly after reconnecting it's wiring making sure to insert it's top locking tabs with the bottom of the door held up high then swung down into place

Tensioned the belt by positioning the flat side of the belt that comes down the right side of the drum over the idler pulley flat side down and then the ribbed side of the belt over the motor shaft. You will have to move the idler pulley arm to apply full tension against the spring in order to have the slack to get it around the motor shaft.

Reinstalled the lower front panel.

Checked dryer operation OK.

This repair was rated a bit difficult because I didn't know the trick for removing/installing the door assembly and destroyed the switch. Furthermore, putting the belt back on is a somewhat difficult challenge because you have to do it mostly by feel
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing Idler Pulley Spring Door Switch Kit
  • Stephen from LEANDER, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Noisy and blower wheel spin without turn motor shaft
Removed lower panel, door assembly, belt and drum.
Removed blower wheel cover.
Used dremmel tool to cut plastic from metal that attaches the blower to the motor shaft.
Used adjustable wrench to keep motor shaft from turning.
Used vise grip to clamp on metal and turned to loosen blower wheel.
Attached new blower and re-assembled.
Parts Used:
Blower Wheel
  • William from FORT WAYNE, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Wrench (Adjustable)
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Stripped Pulley Shaft On Motor
After paying someone to "fix" my dryer's heating element, I ended up with a dryer with a stripped pulley shaft and nut on the motor. Rather than paying another ridiculous amount to "fix" the dryer again, I decided to try myself. I am not an expert, but did manage to replace the motor on my dryer.

Unfortunately, although PartSelect provides a video for just about every part they sell, they do not have a video for replacing the motor. However, they do provide a video for replacing the Dryer Idle Level which is attached to the motor, and I suggest watching this video to help remove the motor for replacement.

https://youtu.be/8AtOYoABVp0

Some tips while disassembling the dryer that will help with reassembly: Bring your cell phone. I watched the video in full, then watched step by step as I took the dryer apart. Take pictures of where wires are connected so you can reconnect them properly. A majority of the bolts you remove will use the same size socket, but are different. Be sure to separate them so you don't get them mixed up. I used a magnetic bowl and clumped them together. Have a vacuum handy for all the dust bunnies that have accumulated. Finally, while they may not be broken now, I ordered a new belt, drum wheels, and Idler, and replaced them while I had the dryer apart. Might as well replace these items that eventually fail while you are there since they are not that expensive. I ordered a kit that contained all 3 from another vendor, but you can find them here with videos for instillation.

Once you have the motor removed as shown in the video linked above, you will have to remove the metal shield covering the fan. Then using a socket wrench on the attachment of the fan itself, and another wrench to hold the pulley nut if it is attached, or vice grips on the shaft if it is stripped like mine, loosen the fan from the motor. It is a reverse screw pattern, so be sure to loosen in the direction that is indicated on the fan itself so not to break the fan which is plastic. Once the fan is removed, you will see two clamps holding the motor to the base, Use a flat head screw driver to push down on one side of the clamp, then leverage it off. After removing both clamps, squeeze the edges of the wiring harness and remove it. With a slight turn to of the motor it will come free of the base. Replace it with the new one insuring it is label side up, then reassemble in reverse. Wiring harness, clamps, fan, ect.

The video link above will give instructions for reassembling the dryer and attaching the belt. Good luck.
Parts Used:
Motor Assembly - Threaded Shaft
  • Scott from AIKEN, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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switch clip broke
Unscrewed front panel. Pulled off unbroken wire connecter and popped switch and put new one in. Replaced front panel.
Parts Used:
Door Switch Kit
  • JEROME from NILES, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Gas smell
After removing the front panel, the igniter just just snaps into the bracket.
Parts Used:
Igniter
  • Garrett from PHILADELPHIA, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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All Instructions for the ALG331RMW
136 - 150 of 442