AFFU1766DW2 Frigidaire Freezer - Instructions

Pretty simple, take cover off back of freezer to access thermostat, unhook thermostat and replace with new one. It had wire hookups different from original part so had to look up that information. Turned out it did not matter which wire went on which prong.

Replaced thermostat and it fixed the problem. Freezer comes on and turns off automatically and regulates internal temperature around 2-5 degrees.
The hardest part was extending the coiled probe tubing and forming it to fit into clamp without kinking it.

removed old broken part, 3 screws, then installed new part.....done

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

I removed the shelves in the freezer, took out the five 1/4" screws and lifted off the cover. It was a simple matter of using a blow drier to remove all the ice, then unplugging the two wires and unclipping the thermostat from the upper cooling tube. Then clipped the new one on and reconnecting the two wires.

Works great!!!

Removed the back panel in freezer compartment with the nut-driver. Then I cut off old thermostat connections, and spliced in new thermostat connections (repairman had already replaced defrost timer, and said not to trust connectors included on wires-they failed often). Then I snapped thermostat itself onto cooler coil. So far so good, fridge is running at 35-40 degrees a week later. Thanks Parts-Select!!!

Removed the basket. Removed the two broken brackets (6 screws). Installed the two new brackets. Put the basket on the track. Done.

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

First unplug freezer, then disconnected wires from timer.
Removed 2 screws from bracket holding time to freezer.
Attached New part with screws. .The mounting bracket is now part of New time. Reattach wires.
I let coils defrost and then plugged it.

easy change less than 10 min

I did watch a repair a utube video which I asked for when ordering. Pretty much followed most of the directions but:

started in left corner an lossed all screws from left to right. took off old gasket in small sections and inserted the new gasket and semi tighten screws

proceeded down left side then right little by little as above. to get to bottom of door.

bottom corners were a little snug to get them into place. the last corner was snug but once connected. tighten screws not too tight. You dont want to strip them.

test door with piece of paper.

if paper is not a snug tug, you can adjust gasket with a hair dryer set to low.

it was easy. freezer is all set.

Partselect was great to deal with, support verified the part number was correct for my freezer and help with that video.

This did not fix the problem. Call a repairman and he cannot come until 9/11. Food is staying frozen. Alarm sounds for awhile and then shuts off for a bit.

Bought the defrost timer based on PartSelect recommendations, installed it and no change. Apparently the old one was fine but since the refrigerator was in a flood and this part got submerged in water I kept it rather than returning it. I looked at everything closely and realized all the mechanical functions were working properly. Rarely does a condenser coil fail so I decided to look into recharging the coolant. Bought a 1/4 inch bullet valve, a 12oz. can of R-134a and a cheap resealable can adapter with hose, gauge and R22 to R-134a adapters. After a $30. investment Bingo, after one squirt the refrigerator began to cool and after 4oz. it now works better than new. I understand that PartSelect is in the business of selling only their parts but please consider that there can be other simple problems.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

Loosened the screws all around the door. easier if you take the door off the unit and lay it on a table. Cover the table with a blanket to protect the door finish. Old gasket just pulls loose. Press the raised bead on the new gasket under the plastic strip. Corners were the most difficult. Retighten the the screws and rehang the door. It took some practice to get the bead under the plastic strip.