Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Belt noise/slipping even after replaceing worn motor assy
Unplug dryer. Remove lower panel.Remove dryer lent duct. Remove Thermostat fm fan housing. Remove Fan.Remove Fan housing. Remove Motor assy by sliding out, wires lay toward front, allowing room to replace idler pulley and spring. Use lock ring pliers to remove pulley from shaft. Grease pulley/shaft w/high temp grease [I used ultra-hi temp ceramic brake grease-can get in small packets at auto stores].Noise/slippage has all but stopped. Lesson: replace rear rollers and front felt/glides. Belt looseness also caused by worn rear rollers [smaller overall diameter from age]-even though they spin freely
Unplugged dryer removed the front, removed & marked the wires. Removed the drum & drive belt. Removed the snap ring on front of roller with a pgtai awl.Removed the wheel & worn washers, removed the nut on the back of the roller shaft. reppaced it all in reversed proceedure. Other than a few little scrapes on the knuckles it was Quite easy.
I tested all the thermostats and fuses and the heating element with a VOM. I found that the thermal fuse was bad and replaced that and it heats fine. The hard part was reaching everything from the front of the dryer. Poor design for access. Also replaced the door switch while I had it apart.
The front of the dryer needed to be taken off, the drum needed to be taken out and the belt installed on the wheel structure. I was very pleased at how fast I received the part after ordering it! I will definitely use this site again when ordering replacement parts!
Getting 'no heat' out of the dryer. Should I just buy a new one or repair the unit?
Disconnect power and pulled the lower front panel off unit (2 screws). I used a ohm meter and found heater coil open. Ordered correct part online (easy to find it on the web site). Three days later, new part in hand I unplugged the failed unit's wiring and removed the heating unit (2 screws). Installed the new part, connected wires and reinstalled the four screws. Engaged power and turned the dryer on. Vent pie had heat, so placed wet clothes in unit and ran a dryer cycle. Works like new. Cost was about $65.00 versus the $500.00 for a new dryer.
Very noisy (thumpy) when running, after a while it would squeal like a banshee
Removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the front panel and pulled the cover up and out. Labeled the wires to the light and door switch and disconnected. Lifted the belt tensioner arm and unlooped the belt from it and the motor. Removed the 4 bolts that hold the front drum support on then held the drum up and removed the support. Pulled the drum out slightly and allowed the rear to drop, at this point you can get to the rear rollers without pulling the drum out of the machine. The roller shaft was so tight I had to put a straight-blade bit in a 1/4" socket to get enough torque to break it loose. Make sure to use a large enough driver or you will strip the slot out of the screw. This model had a nut on the back but I was able to just drag my finger against it to get it apart. Removed the washer and roller from the shaft and cleaned the shaft and washer with WD40 before reinstalling with the new roller. Vacuumed all the lint I could get to and reassembled, lift drum, push back, front support, 4 bolts, belt, wires, front panel, 2 screws.
Had to lay dryer on back. Cause it didn't have a back cover had to take the front door off and go in thru the front. Had to take the vent off. Had to use scotch tape to hold the belt in place while I got it on. It would have been a lot easier if they had a back cover. I only hope I don't have to do it again as it squells a bit on start up. Bill
Disconnected dryer from vent and power receptacle, placed dryer on its back and remove the front panel by removing screws along the bottom of the panel and pulling down on the panel. Below the drum the element mounting plate was visible so I removed the sensor and element wires, removed the element mounting screws and pulled the element down and out of its "duct". I installed the new element and replaced the wires and front panel. That's all folks!
Terrible squeaking sounds and drum finally quit turning
My husband pulled drum out of dryer and replaced the idler pulley wheel and decided to replace the belt while he was in there. It's good to have a snap ring tool as it's a pain to replace the snap ring without this tool. Goes alot quicker!
I began by removing the two screws at the lower part of the front panel. After removing the panel I was able to access and remove the broken switch which was located on the front panel. I popped out the old switch and replaced it with the new one, reattached the wires and put the front panel on and the jod was done.
The dryer had been squeaking for at least 6 months when it finally became painfully loud and unacceptable
. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.
I watched the repair video and followed the instruction given to replace the belt. The instructions were easy to follow and to the point. The one thing that was not covered was to vacuum the interior prior to closing the dryer up.
Drum did not turn on heavy loads, only light loads.
I guessed that a new belt may fix the problem. The repair was nearly as easy as the video suggested. I believe the dryer had been repaired before since there was a circular panel on the side which had been removed. I could reach in through the side to slip the new belt onto the pulley. The new belt now enables the drum to turn even for heavy loads.
