ADG20L1H Admiral Dryer - Instructions

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.

Checked ignitor it was working ok, disconnected 3 pronged coil and disconnected 2 pronged coil using multi tester checked continuity on both coils both tested 0,with help of operator ordered M Series new style coil kit. When parts arrived installed coils attached wire harnesses installed bracket and 2 screws that secures coils. Started dryer it worked and stayed working who needs the Maytag Repair Man probably saved about 200.00 between service call and markup on coils. Thanks Virtual Repairman

Well, had I read more of the reviews on this website, I would have learned that my problem was the valve coils. Instead, I assumed it was the igniter, so I ordered and installed a new igniter to no avail. I was about to just go buy a new dryer at Home Depot and spend $600, but I had to try again so I read more reviews on this website and began measuring resistances across the valve coils and discovered I had a bad one. I ordered both just to be safe, and installed them and quickly enjoyed my first uninterrupted dryer cycle in over a year (for over a year, I had been stopping and restarting my dryer about 10 times for each cycle). So THANKS for this website and to all the home technicians who posted symptoms, resistances, and how-to-do-its to help me get this done. It was an empowering experience to fix this and have bookmarked this website for any future appliance fixes. It's a great website with all its schematics and postings.

replace two heating coils. Dryer working find.

I suspected the high limit fuse. I unplugged the machine, lifted the top, found the high-limit fuse (about the size of four dimes glued together) just to the right of the heating coil. I pulled the two wires off and taped them together. Plugged the machine back in and it worked perfectly. I made sure the heating coils started to glow red. When the part arrived, I replaced the old unit with the new, plugged the two wires back on, and I was done. Just for additional information, when I touched the heating coil during the repair, it broke. After 16 years, the heating coils get brittle, so I also replaced the heating coil and it's thermostat just above it (about the size of 6 quarters glued together). I hope this gets me another 16 years.

Open top of dryer, then remove front. Coils on lower left. Unplug and replace coils. Vacuum loose lint from bottom of dryer. Replace front then top of dryer. Test run. All good !

I thought it had to be the igniter so I replaced that part. The dryer still did not start. I replaced the high limit and hoorah dryer works. Two weeks go by, the dryer is drying the clothes but my wife smells gas in the laundry room. I replaced the coil pak on the gas valve. My wife says she still smells gas. I replaced the radiant flame sensor and no gas smell for 2 weeks now.

1st replaced limit thermostat because it tested bad; this did not resolve the problem. Initial burn was successful. Heating element would heat but burner would not ignite for subsequent burns unless allowed to cool down for 10 minutes or more. Coils tested at correct values, but a u-tube video said that was not always an indication of a flawless coil set. It was either the coils or the burner itself. Burner would not have been a justifiable expense even though it came with new coil set, so tried the coil set, and it resolved the problem.

popped top up with flat screw-took out 4 screws (2 screws-1/4" nut driver - 2 phillips screws on bracket that holds coils in place) unplugged 2 wire lugs (1 three wire & 1 two wire) changed out bad coils screws back in-plugged wires back in -popped top back down .done

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

I ordered the top 5 items that may cause this problem based on the troubleshooting guide presented by the technicians I found in youtube. I replaced the coils and that fixed the problem. The coils are the first to go out according to techs, but I have the other parts just in case I may need them later on. My Maytag dryer which is over 19 years old is alive and working again. The coils are accessible from the bottom access panel secured by 2 nut screws, unplug the dryer first, then the coils are secured by a bracket with 2 small philips head screw, I used a stubby philips screw driver to remove the bracket, undo the 2 electrical connectors on the coils one with 2 prongs and the other with 3 prongs. Put the new coils attached the electrical connectors and secured them with the bracket. Checked for any loose wiring ensuring connectors are secured in place, then test run the dryer with the panel off so you can see the if the flame stays on, if you run the dryer without wet clothes the flame may stop after 15 or so minutes. It is better to test run the dryer with wet clothes just like when your drying fresh washed and wringed clothes. It was really easy, good luck!

Went to your website for information on how to open the cabinet and clues of what could be wrong. I used a putty knife to open top. i
removed two screws holding the front panel then lifted the panel up off of two clips holding it in place. Removed door switch from panel and set panel aside. I turned the dryer on and noticed that the igniter never turned on but the drum turned CCW. I then unplugged the electric cord from the wall and turned off the gas at the supply valve behind dryer.
I removed 3 connectors (1 from igniter, 2 from gas valve coils). Mark the gas valve flare nut and tube with a marker so you know how much to tighten it on reassembly.
I used two adjustable wrenches to remove gas line from gas valve.
Then removed one screw holding gas valve assembly in place.
Removed gas valve assembly from dryer. I took a nut driver to remove screw holding the igniter to the assembly. I used a meter to check bad igniter and it was open. I checked new igniter and it read 88 ohms.
Caution: never touch the igniter heating surface with your bear hands because you will shorten its life. Clean dryer lint from front panel and cabinet. Now reverse these steps for reassembly.
Thank you for the video on how to open the cabinet and the ideas for what could be the problem. The dryer was 2004/2005 model so about 14 years old.

I unplugged the dryer from the outlet and opened the top of the dryer with a puddy knife .I marked both wires "T" for the one on top and "B" for the one on the bottom. I removed the screw that holds the bracket in place that the High Limit Kit fuse is attached to and removed both wires with a pair of pliers. I made sure that the new fuse was turned the same way as the old fuse. There is some writing on one side and it should be pointing to the back of the dryer. I put the fuse in the bracket and placed the bracket back in the slotted holder placed the screw back in the bracket holder tighten it up hooked the wires up as labeled and closed the top. I plugged the dryer up opened the door and the light came on. After I turned it on it worked then it tripped the breaker. I reset the breaker turned it on again and it worked I haven't had a problem since. Make sure that you use the fuse with the pink dot on it for a electric dryer.

Checked out the coil seemed ok. So I replaced the radiant flame sensor. No change. Then I replaced the High limit sensor still the heat was not staying on. I read some were in the troubleshooting guide that the coil can test good, but can still malfunction. So that was it new coil fix it, works like a new Dryer again.

i removed the door and front panel then removed the two screws holding the coil bracket,disconnected the two wires on coils,set new coils in place and reversed the above process