This dryer heating element kit is 240 volts and 4750 watts. The function of the heating element is to produce the heat that allows you to dry your clothing during your dryer cycle. If your clothes tak...
This blower wheel clamp, used in a clothes dryer, is a clamp that holds the blower wheel to the motor shaft. This part helps hold the blower wheel in place to function easily and properly. If your clo...
The rear dryer drum roller functions by holding the drum in place while the drum rotates on support wheels during the drying spin/tumble cycle. Included in this rear drum support roller kit are four s...
This high limit/safety thermostat is used on many gas and electric clothes dryers. It is made of metal, and is almost two inches long. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if t...
This part is the replacement thermal fuse for your dryer. It measures a little more than an inch wide, and about ¾ inch long. The thermal fuse is a safety device that shuts off the burner in a gas dry...
I was about to purchase a new dryer because of the age of my dryer and not wanting to hire someone to fix it. After a little web research, I saw several do-it -yourself stories indicating this was a very easy repair.
This was an extremely easy repair and it save me lots of $$: (1) Disconnected power (2) Opened the
... Read moretop of the dryer (3) Disconnected wires to temperature sensor. (4) Used a 1/2" socket wrench with extension and a drill to remove 2 screws holding down the temperature sensor (5) Removed 1 screw holding down the heating element. (6) Removed wires connected to heating element and pulled out old element. (7) Reassembled new element. (8) Turned on empty dryer for 30 minutes to burn off smell from the new element.
I opened the dryer from the front by pushing in on the two clips just under the top. I then had to remove two screws on each side and took the front panel off. I reached around underneath on the right side to slip the belt off the pulley. I pulled the drum out and then I could see the roller that was squeaking (the left one). The whee
... Read morel had sheared some of the support off and that was the cause of the squeak.
I took the locking ring off and removed the wheel and support. I put the new support in, attached it, and then the wheel, washer and lock ring. I used pliers to push the lock ring onto the support.
Then I put the drum back in making sure it was in all the way (it fits snugly between the wheel and the back of the dryer). The belt is a little tricky to get back on. I put it around the drum and then reached underneath and behind again. The pulley is on a spring, so you have to pull it up and put the belt on all one-handed and blind. Once that was on, I gave it a few turns to make sure everything was working again.
Unplugged unit, lifted the top cover, removed heater element screw, lifted out element, lifted out thermal fuse bracket. Removed wires from thermal fuse, confirmed was open curcuit at room temperature. Attached wires to thermal fuse, inserted fuse into bracket, slid bracket onto clip on side of box that housed the heater element, reinst
... Read morealled heater elememt, inserted long screw into heater element hole and tightened snugly. Extra to ensure proper air flow: Then removed wires from door switch on fron panel (labeled them), removed 2 screws at top of from panel, tilted and lifted front panel off, removed blower cover, cleaned all duct work from blower to exit of unit, sealed plastic duct that was attached to front panel. It had loose gaskets that allowed air to be drawn in from the sides and not through the duct thus bypassing the drum and heater element. Reattached blower cover, lowered and tilted front cover into place, reattached top 2 corner screws, reattached switch wires, lowered top. Plugged in and tested. Note the Partselect sales person told me that the LA-1053 kit contained 3 items, however, it only came with the fuse, not the thermostats. Foutunately, only my fuse was shot.