ACF3315AK (PACF3315AK0) Amana Range - Instructions

I am sure I saved a bunch of money for an outside repair. It was so simple I was embarassed that I did not attempt the repair sooner. Removed two screws from old burner head lifted it up unplugged the electrode wire replaced with new burner head put the two screws back in place and I was finished.

The broiler igniter and oven igniter are the same - WITH ONE MPORTANT DIFFERENCE- the plug! I tried to just switch them since we dont ever use the broiler but could not, due to the plug. I think that is part of planned obsolescence ! Anyway, I left the door and the power on - you guessed it, rebel! If you get a tingle from replacing this part you shouldnt be trying to fix it on your own! I removed the oven racks, took two small screws from rear of oven floor out, removed base plate. Two more small screws released the defective part. Pulled the plug wire through the back of oven and unclipped the connector. Plugged new part in, tucked the wires back into the insulation, replaced two screws on the igniter. Test fired oven- worked like a champ. Shut burner off, reinstalled base plate and screws and put the oven racks back in. Easy!

The website helped me to troubleshoot and identify my issue. They had a complete database to find my part and some instructions to how to install it.The repair was easy: 2 screws to remove at the bottom of the inside oven to remove the large plate. Then 2 more screws to remove the ignitor. Now to unplug the ignitor, I really had to access the back of the stove. i saw videos of people doing this from the front under the stove (not moving it). In my case, for this model, I had to move the stove to the "middle of the room", to access the back. Then 2 more screws to remove a small plate where I could see the cable to unplug.It was advised to close the gas faucet, and unplug the stove. I only unplugged the electricity, and it was fine. Then I tested the repair before I put back the large plate at the bottom of the oven.My only issue was the isolation "tube" going around the 2 wires ad connected to the new ignitor. I had them on my previous model, but not on the new model. So I managed to put it back to cover/isolate the new wires. Then everything worked again.

Took off the bottom panel of the oven two screws then unpluged old igniter then pluged in the new igniter, replaced the bottom panel and that was all. I didn't even have to take the oven door off. Repair was done in less that 5 min.

The repair was easy. Used an ohm meter to find problem, if you follow wiring schematic , it is fairly easy to trace. Found open circuit across igniter. Repair was easy, only needed to remove part of back plate and bottom shel in oven and replace igniter, the repair took about 30minutes.

Remove two phillips screws, lift the burner head up and remove the wire from the electrode. DO NOT DROP THE WIRE!!! It will fall into the stove top, adding much more time and frustration to this very simple repair. Reverse these steps to complete the repair.

Replaced the igniter as I've done with other products with similar problems. My amp tester wasn't working so I didn't test the igniter. The igniter wasn't the problem so I contacted a repair man who came up with the conclusion that the problem was actually the gas control valve. The valve wasn't letting enough gas to ignite the burner.

Removed the racks inside the oven then (2) screws that hold the bottom cover. Once the cover was off I exposed the burner element. I Removed (2) small Philips screws that held the unit. I removed electrical plug and the unit was out. I replaced the part and put everything back together. This was a very simple job took me about 10 minutes to complete. gas company wanted to charge $130 just to come out and look at. I saved some good cash.

Insert one end of the railing into the slot in the back of the stove. Align the front end of the railing with the hole at the front of the stove. Align the roller with the hole. Secure the front end of the railing, roller ,and hole with the shoulder bolt using a 10mm wrench. Tighten just enough but don't over tighten.

Replaced both the broiler (top) oven ignitor and bake (bottom) oven ignitor! Easy to do, no need to call a repair person on this job!

The burner has two screws holding it in place. I remover those and lifted the burner up. I then disconnected the wire attached to the igniter that was on the old burner and attached it to the igniter that was pre-installed on the new burner. I then placed the burner back into position and reinstalled the two screws. The reason that I bought the burner assembly is that I was unable to unscrew the screw underneath that held the igniter in place on the old burner.

I'm a girl, blonde, and fixed it! Oven just turned 10 in July. I removed oven racks, then used screw driver to remove two screws for the lower panel. Used screw driver to listen the two screws that hold igniter in place, then wrench to remove. Pulled wires out from hole in back of oven, unplugged old igniter, used needle nose pliers to hold wires in place from slipping back through hole, plugged in new, pushed wires back in, screwed it in, turned oven on to make sure igniter worked, it glowed, turned off, replaced lower panel, turned oven on again to let it light up, it did, screwed it in, replaced rack, closed door, preheated oven, and then baked cookies! Great company, great customer service, and super fast shipping!