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Scratches in Surface
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.
Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.
Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.
It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)
This was a very easy repair job! I just needed to remove the drawers and shelving, put the new ladder hook on, and repace the shelving and drawers. It took longer to remove the items from the fridge, then it did to replace the ladder hook.
The light switch on the refridgerator broke - no light.
Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.
The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.
The evap motor failed (no air movement inside of refrierater
Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.
Removed the drawers and shelf unit above the shelves. Installed the new rail and put the shelf unit and drawers back in. Less than 5 minute repair. Very fast delivery of part and reasonable pricing.
Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist both ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.
Unsnap damper louver cover using only your fingernails at bottom. Remove two phillips screws from damper cover. Remove styrofoam molded insulation. Squeeze electrical connector to release latch; unplug connector. Release latches on both sides of damper control while gently pulling on damper control unit to remove it. Install new unit by doing above steps in reverse. Damper door may move when electrics connected; keep fingers clear. Amana would not honor our extended warranty that we paid $65 for, saying that noises are not covered. Im glad that Partselect supplied the part quick and and a great price. The frig is quiet for the first time in 2 years!
Ok, pretty easy repair when the parts are correct (first part was faulty, parts select quickly sent me a new one)
First is removal, these tubes are in there very tight, they can be pulled out but weaken the lines and it is not likely to work without severly stretching the line to the point of breakage, if you have to cut them do so carefully and take off as little tubing as possible as you need the length to feed from top to bottom.
Once you have cut all the lines, or pulled them out (I was able to get 2 out without cutting) then make sure the edges are smooth, attach the inlet valve to the plate and just push them tightly into the new valve making sure you route the lines correctly.
Turn everything on and run the water line to see if it works. If no leaks, screw it back to the refrigerator and you are good to go. Takes maybe 20 minutes at most.
Remove cover inside frig at rearwall top with screw driver. Remove phillips screws holding unit in place. Unclip connectors ,and replace in reverse order.
I used board levers to do one side at a time.Kinda tricky, but you can hoist up fridge high enough to replace wheels. take your time think it out and be safe . Make sure you use saftey boards to support load to protect yourself==good luck A small mirror may help to see how the rollers alien in the supports.
Inside the food section above the top shelf behind the light in the back, remove the lid from the cover in lifting from the lower edge no tools necessary here. Remove two screws with Phillips screw driver remove entire housing inclusive Styrofoam insert. Unplug damper Control Unit. Remove two screws and remove damper control unit and replace in reverse order. Finally that refrigerator is quiet, I should have done this long time ago. Unbelievable this is the second part I have to replace on this expensive refrigerator.
Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.