A702S Maytag Washer - Instructions

I tipped the washer up on 2by4 blocks used 1/4 inch rachet with 5/16 socket two remove 3 screws and the belt from underneath. Took clamps off hoses yahoo saved l00 bucks!

To troubleshoot the problem I removed a panel/blank from the back of the machine. I then started to fill the tub while watching the pump. It immediately leaked from the shaft seal. I ordered the part early the next morning. It arrived late the next day. I was able to remove the front panel of the machine by removing a screw at each front corner of the bottom of the machine. The pump was attached with three screws which were simple to remove. The pump was an exact replacement and fit identically to the original. I tensioned the belt, and tested the machine. Before reinstalling the front cover, I cleaned the interior of the machine a bit and replaced a couple of hose clamps whose steel screws had started to corrode. All in all a simple repair.

This job turned out to be alot easier than I thought thanks to the tips I received on the web site. First I removed the agitator with a small nut drive I believe it was 1/4". Than I removed the two screws holding on the lid and lofted it out of the way. This is where the Hammer drill comes in. I had read someone else had used WD40 to help break free the threads and get the retaining ring off the tub it self. I worked on this for about 20 minutes with lube and trying to tap it off with the hammer and tap method. Finally I looked over and sitting there on the self next to the washer was my hammer drill. It can't be any worse than banging on the thing with the hammer. (They proably don't reccomend) but with a straight tip and a couple of quick shots the gaint nut came right off. I will say that my washer being older I could barely even tell where the threads were so I figured why not. It worked great. I then took the tub ring(plastic) at the top off and removed tub. Again a couple of quick shots with the hammer drill and the ring came right off. I did spend a little time making sure everything was clean and then reassembled machine with no more leaks. It may sound strange but it worked great with no fighting the space constraints, the calcium buildup and no damage to machine. If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer. Good luck

removed the lens cover, replaced the bulb and reinstalled the lens cover.

After ruling out leaks in the hoses, pumps, tanks, and other connections, I set the machine to start filling while I had the top open. Immediately, it was obvious the water was coming out from the injector valve (located at the top of the machine, between the water inlet mixing valve and the washing tank).

After taking this part off and disassembling, I realized that the neoprene inner part was not salvageable. (I tried cleaning off the accumulated scale and reassembling, but the rubber was too old and stiff, and no longer worked as designed.)

I considered just replacing the valve assembly, but when I saw that the price to purchase hoses as well was only slightly more, I decided to go ahead and do the full job.

The actual repair consisted of removing a couple hose clamps, sliding the new parts into place, and putting the covers back on the machine. Less than 1/2 hour.

There are two phillips head screws near the bottom of the front cover panel to remove, then two hex head screws up near the top of the machine (inside) to release the top cover from the frame. The top then tips up to reveal the inlet hoses.

At that point, the rest of the procedure is obvious. Remove the hose clamps and pull off the old hoses; install the new parts; replace the covers on washing machine.

Don't force anything into place. If you have to push that hard, chances are something is not in the right position. There is plenty of room for the parts if they are installed correctly.

Hint: use a drop of liquid hand soap to lubricate the inside of the hoses prior to pushing them onto the fittings. It makes them slide right on and saves a lot of frustration. Any excess soap will flush through on the first load and become part of the wash cycle.

opened washer removed old damaged part and replaced with new part, losen brackets from hose inlet, removed hose, then fit new hose into tub groves can be very frustrating take your time and be patient, once you get it on, fit over inlet, tighten brackets make sure that seal is secure by turning on the water to fill if no leak the job is done run thru complete cycle to test. Thanks

Loosen one hose clamp, slide old hose off fitting, disconnect hose from washer tub. Apply liquid soap to both ends of new hose to make it easy to slip onto the fitting and the tub. Slip hose clamp on one end, fit other end to washer tub, slip hose onto fitting, tighten clamp.

I removed two screws near the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom away from the machine. Inside, I removed two cap screws, one under each front corner of the top panel. The top panel is hinged at the rear. I lifted the top panel from the front, rotated it to the rear and leaned it against the wall behind the machine. It was not necessary to disconnect any wiring. The "U" shaped water injector hose connects to the washer water source with a hose clamp and has a grommet-like end that fits in a round hole in the top of the tub. The hose had cracked and was leaking where it connected to the tub. The new injector hose was a direct replacement and was easy to install.

Well I looked on line to see if there were any similialtys to my problem and followed what they had done on their washing machines. I replaced the water pump,the slide control below the motor,and the lid switch.None of these items worked.I called a tech.and he informed me that it sounds like the transmission is bad ,he is coming to my house tonight to take a look at the machine.

Looked online and found a video for the repair consistent with a water leak. Two screws to remove the front panel of the washer, loosen two hose clamps, remove belt (by hand) and three screws to remove old water pump. Replaced pump, replaced belt (made sure it was tight, but not too tight), replaced water hoses, placed cover back on the front and I was done. Maybe 15 minutes tops. Very, very easy. Works like a charm and saved probably $100 in labor.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Found main drive belt had a big chunk out of it. Both belts were worn and "gummy". Replaced both belts with belt kit 12112425; no tools needed -- belts are replaced from the bottom. Just tip the washer back to the wall, and there are the belts.. Installation time 5 minutes.

took front panel off had 2 screws, propped up washer in front, took belts off with hands and put new ones on in reverse order One belt was badly cracked. I am 77 year old female, if I can do it, anybody can. great service on getting belts too. Thank you

Replaced the air tube, existing one had been chewed by mice was easy to replace and solved the issue

well i first put on 2 new belts because they were worn and smoking. the new belts did not fix the problem. you suggested putting in a new pulley. it went against my better judgement that the pulley was defective. well i put in the new pulley and now the real problem has surfaced. the transmission is not working. now i want to order a new tranny and low and behold it is no longer available. well why did you sell me a $99 pulley when that was not the next part to change after the belts were replaced. now i have a new pulley on a washer that is going to the recycle center as metal trash. well on my part i will reward maytag by buying a ge washer now. plus i will not count on using you as my parts supplier.