1960's oven door gasket fell apart, actual gasket not available any more
Chose rubber flexible gasket with metal tabs. cut to size. unscrewed metal bracket on inside oven edge on 3 sides, slipped metal tabs between oven and metal and screwed back in. Done! Not a perfect fit but pretty good - better than no gasket.
The oven igniter came on but the gas valve never turned on.
1. remove oven door 2. remove racks and oven floor 3. remove oven burner 4. unhook igniter 5. install new igniter 6. tuck wiring back in as reinstalling burner 7. put in the insulation supplied in kit 8. install floor and racks. 9. install door. 10. test system 11. oven came on. SUCCESS
The oven bottom was warped and could not be positioned properly in the oven.
Removing the old oven bottom was easy...as it was already outside of its slots. Installing the new one was pretty easy. I placed the oven bottom in the front slots first...then the rear slots...no tools necessary.
Remove oven door, remove burner bar, replace ignitor, splice wires together because the old electrical connectors had melted together. Shipping was fast and extra wire, insulation and ceramic wire nuts were included.
Gas would come on, would not ignite. Oven not heating.
Super easy. Turn off gas and unplug. Lift door off hinges, just pull up on it. Take racks out. Lift floor of oven out. You may need to release clips in the back of the oven, but mine were not engaged. Remove wing nut from shield plate and lift plate off. Using nutcracker, or Phillips screwdriver, remove screws holding the igniter to the brace plate. Carefully pull wires from the back of the oven wall. Carefully unplug the old part. Carefully plug in the new part. Feed wires back into the oven wall and install fiberglass padding. Replace screws, shield plate, wing nut, oven floor, oven racks and door. Door just slides back onto hinges. Watch the video on parts elect. Couldn't have been easier. Saved $500 on replacing my oven. $40 for DIY repair. Awesome!!!