9815VUV Magic Chef Wall Oven - Instructions

I made the mistake of thinking that, if the oven was off, there would be no voltage to the heating element. Wrong! I removed the element, wearing rubber gloves just for safety, and had no problem. But when I put the wiring back on the new element and tried to slide it into the hole at the back of the oven, one of the wires brushed the metal, sparks flew, and melted one of the wires. Even though the oven was off, this wire was hot. The solution was, of course, just to turn off the circuit breaker, reconnect the wire, and slide the element back in. It works fine now.

very easy

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

First, we cut the power to the oven and removed the oven racks. I removed the two screws holding the old heating element in (removed easily, I didn't need any WD-40) and pulled the element wiring out of the back of the oven. It took me a while to realize how the wiring was/is connected to the element, but once I did they came off fairly easily with a little coaxing from some pliers. On our model, the wiring thingums fit down onto the element prongs. So, you pull the straight up to remove them. Very technical terms here. After the wires and the new element were connected, I screwed the new element in, turned the power back on and the oven was is excellent working order again.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Removed the two screws on both elements, pulled the wires off, put the wires on the new elements and put the screws back in. Very easy, works perfect.

Couldn't get oven to slide all the way out of cabinet. Disconnected electrical (first threw correct circuit breaker), then slid oven out. Removed applicable parts to get to the hinges. Later realized the oven WOULD slide all the way out of cabinet WITHOUT disconnecting electrical. Once oven was slide out far enough from cabinet, oven door hinges were easily accessable and it each hinge only had two screws.

Turn off the breaker. Remove the two screws holding the bake element and disconnect the two wires. Plug the new element in and re install the screws. Trip the breaker back on and test the oven. It works.

Disconnected power pulled oven from wall, removed 8 screws from back, unplugged sensor, removed old, attached new, put screws back wow saved me $500. From buying new and $150. For service call

Turned power off by switching off the breaker. Removed both racks from oven. Removed two Phillips head screws at back of oven securing the old heat element. Pulled old heat element forward about four inches exposing the two power wires connected to it. Removed the wires from their connectors. Removed old element. Connected new element to power wires and pushed it back in place. Replaced new Phillips head screws. Replaced racks, and turned power back on. Oven was fixed in less than five minutes. Disposed of old element. Life is good.

Followed provided video

I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.

Very easy. remove two screwa , pull element forward, unplug.Set new element in place, plug in. push back in. Screw in both screws and your done.