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The small element blew out consequently shorting out the infinite switch.
The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range. My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.
no power going to burner when switch is on, switch bad
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.
Burner only worked on High and very low temperature setting.
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.
Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
The control knob stem broke off when I moved the stove.
I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.
Live in an apartment and they had generic drip pans on the stove causing pots to tilt when cooking.
Replaced drip pans that the apartment Superintendent had in place with the correct drip pans and now cooking is beautiful again! No more uneven cooking on the stove top.
Removed burner from each one. removed drip bowl. Inserted new bowl. Replaced burner. Excellent help from order people so I got the correct bowl was irreplacable.
it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank
Removed the burner elements, removed and disposed of old drip pans, cleaned the area, relaced with new drip pans and replaced the burner elements. Verified all burners were level - good as the day it was new!
Burner was unreliable...would stop working...I had already replaced the burner
I did as the video suggested.....I cut the old wires and spliced new ones already attached to the new terminal block. It would have been nice to have some instructions with the parts as I expected one piece but had to connect the wires to the new block and the new metal cover. I was guessing a bit. Also, I needed to use the holder strip off my old part so that it displaced the new part back far enough to insert the burner connections. That meant finding a screw and nut small enough to allow the metal cover to fit on the block. But the burner works great. I've learned that any repair requires some ingenuity.
R had ight front control made loud noise when contacts opened.
This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Plastic Insert for knob to long, had to use my bench grinder to cut it down
(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.
the wires were not long enough to use the original path.
the original path was from the right front control knob around the back of the range and left side of range,which i dismantaled to install the new wires to the right front burner. When I found them to be to short I had to also dismantal the right side so the wires could be routed there. The new wires worked fine but did take some extra time.