91195987991 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.

Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Basically removed the screws holding the op on and removed the vent from back. Just "figured it out" and now it works. Wish I could be more helpful. Recommend moderate experience and confidence.

Removed panel to gain access, removed wires from switch from burner that was not operating and attached them to switch for burner that was working. Burner worked, problem identified. Replaced bad switch with new switch. Problem solved.

1- opened oven door
2- unscrewed 2 screws underneath top with a socket wrench
3- unscrewed clips that held burner
4-used needle nose pliers to pull off wire clips off old burner
5- placed wires onto new burner
6- opened clips to make it easier to reinsert burner
7-reattached burner
8-Replaced top

The hardest part was unscrewing the 2 screws that held the top in place due to the position of the screws

Disconnected breaker. Removed knobs, plastic retaining nuts mounted to each switch shaft. Removed four 1/4 inch hex head screws on front panel and two screws securing defective switch. Removed bad switch, and replaced with new part. Took photo of wiring before removing old part. Referred to photo to ensure correct wiring of new part. Reassembled front panel in reverse order of disassembly. Turned breaker to on, and tested new switch. All worked well.

The first thing was to watch U-Tube . The replacement burner was being
replaced in a GE glass top range. Exter tools were required than depicted
in the U-Tube project. The project overall was not dificult for me however I was a general contracter for over 25 years

Consult the instruction guide that comes with the new part. Excluding doing some cleaning while things were apart, the operation took about 20minutes. 1. Open the oven door all the way. 2. Pull back the hinge latch on each hinge. 3. Close the door partially (about broil position). 4. Remove door by pulling so that hinges com out of the slots. 5. Carefully set door face down on a table so that inside of door faces up. 6. With a Torx driver, remove 2 screws at upper part of inside of door. 7. With a nut driver, remove screws at bottom of Door Bottom Channel Trim. 8. Lift inside of door off, being careful not to lose the spacers that are behind the door panel at the upper part of the door. 9. With the nut driver, remove 4 screws that hold bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 10. Remove the old trim and replace with the new. 11. Align the left, right, and bottom trim pieces. 12. Reattach the 4 screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim pieces. 13. Carefully replace the inside door panel, making sure the spacers are aligned properly between the main door pieces. 14. With the Torx driver, replace the 2 screws at the upper part of the inside of door. 15. With the nut driver, reattach the bottom screws at the bottom of the trim piece. 16. Carefully reinsert the door hinges into the slots (the door must be in the approximate broil position). 17. When hinges are properly inserted, door may be opened all the way. 18. Push the hinge latches back into hinges to secure door to oven.

. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two plugs.
plugged in the new element and screwed it in place

First we confirmed that the part delivered was the correct piece needed. We unscrewed the interior panel of the door and separated the insulation from the two pieces so the old glass frame could be removed. The rope type gasket gave us some trouble as it was difficult to stage the insulation, glass frame and rope at one time. Once we got the pieces in place it was a breeze to screw the panel back in just in time to make pies for our Thanksgiving dinner.

Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!

It was very easy. First turn off the power. Remove two screws to pick up the hood then remove two screws holding the element. Tag the wires with number. Unplug the old burner attach the wires to new burner. Attach two screws with spring to hold the burner, put the hood down and put the screws holding the top hood.

My cooktop is a stand alone unit mounted in a counter top not associated with an oven.
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!