7MWGD8800AW0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

1 screw to replace.

Unplug dryer. Remove the front bottom panel of dryer 2 screws, then unplug wire connector to the old igniter then unscrew one screw holding ignitor then wiggle out. Open new igniter wiggle back in place insert screw tighten, (getting this screw back in is a little hard) replug wire connector to new igniter replace front panel with two screws. Plug in dryer and there you go drying clothes again. Wife all happy again.

Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!

Just replaced the old lint filter.

Simply removed back cover on dryer and the idler pulley wheel and arm was right there and only had one screw to remove after relieving tension on belt by removing spring. Very simple

Removed rear cover. Released tension on spring to pulley to remove belt from pulley. Used a socket to remove idler. Did the reverse to install.

The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.

Took back panel of dryer off completely disconnected the drive belt to drum of dryer took off old idler pulley reinstall the new pulley and belt works like a brand new dryer

I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.

1.Unplugged the connections to dryer door
2. Removed dryer door, front cabinet,popped off the drum belt (this is done by feel),unplugged the drum from cabinet, removed drum, all to get to the gas element inside at the bottom of dryer.
3. Unplugged the connection to the element, then removed unit to get to the burner parts.
4. Replaced the natural gas burner element with the LP gas element.
5. Re assembled dryer and tested.
*Note: Actually my son did the work while I read the very easy to follow directions. Since neither of us has disassembled a dryer before, the thought of taking a brand new dryer all apart was more daunting than the actual task.

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.

removed old latch with pliers - inserted new latch

1) Unplugged unit & used the 5 in 1 tool to disengage top panel clips from top of front panel & tilted top panel up & out of the way, .
2) Disconnected electrical connection @ upper right of front panel, Used drill & 5/16" socket & adapter to remove 2 upper front panel screws on backside of panel & removed panel.
3) Removed 4 screws from lint screen duct, unplugged elect. con.@ the right & removed lint screen & duct from dryer bulkhead..
4) Loosened 2 top screws & removed 2 bottom screws from bulkhead & lifted bulkhead up & out & set aside.
5) Slid drum belt off the back of the drum & removed the drum
6) Ceaned the blower moter drive shaft threads & threads inside the shaft pulley. Used a file to clean up any burrs on shaft pulley, coated treads of pulley & shaft with red lock tite thread dressing & re-instaled pulley back onto shaft with ajustable pliers while holding blower fan blades steady from inside the blower motor housing. with other hand. note: (pulley is left handed thread)
7) Looped new belt onto drive motor pulley then worked it back onto blower moter pulley with one hand while turning the blades of the blower from inside the blower housing with other hand until it was back in place & ribs on belt were seated in the mating ribs of the pulley.
8) Put everything back in reverse order with the exception of removing the back panel to reinstall the drum belt onto the drive motor shaft pulley and tensioner @ bottom left in back of the dryer.

Hope this instructional is able to help some one else & good luck with your projects!

Just watch YouTube videos. They show you how step by step. Easy to install. Clean all the dust out while dryer is apart if you can with a vacuum.