7MMGD6630TQ1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Replacing the cycling thermostat did not fix the problem on my whirlpool gas dryer. I then did more research on the internet and found that a likely cause was the 2 solenoids coils that control the gas valves. I replaced these and this and now the dryer works great. I had no idea how to open up the dryer to get at these, so it took a little while to figure out. 1) Lift up on front of dryer top to pop top off of 2 spring clips. 2) Reach down through top opening and find 2 bolts that attach dryer front to dryer body and remove with a nut driver. 3) Lift up on dryer front to release it from 2 hooks that it hangs on. 4) Remove 2 screws for bracket that holds coils in place. 5) Unplug coils and put in new ones. 6) Reinstall in reverse order. Problem solved. Great service from your site. Received parts 1 day after order using regular ground shipping.

First I replace the Radiant Flame Sensor, but the problem remain. Then replace the two coils and the igniter. Dryer works like it should. If I were to do it over, I would have replaced all 4 components to start with. Thanks for good advice and great service.

Found symptoms on Part Select website and confirmed that the problem was the coils. It was extremely easy to find and the site saved me hundreds of dollars on a repairman, labor costs and marked up parts. It literally took about 5 minutes to repair. Awesome site!!Thank You

Since there were no troubleshooting steps, I had to start replacing the items according to the list that showed the parts that have fixed the problem for others. I ordered one at a time until I got the part that fixed the problem. I went through 4 parts before I replaced the gas solenoids which is what fixed the problem. By the time I was done, I could disassemble that dry in about 5 minutes or less.

Replace with new latch.

raised the lid, removed 2 bolts from front face, laid dryer on its back,and replaced belt, very simple. took approx. 20 min.

Opened up the dryer, to discover the broken belt at the bottom, read model, serial number. Went on line, found sites that gave parts lists and diagrams. Wrote down part no. Used Safari to find the part. PartsSelect was cheapest, had it in stock, and could ship fastest. Sears was more expensive and slower. The part arrived in 3 days as promised.Overall, it was excellent service.

I have never done this before, so I watched the video and also watched a youtube video for this model to repair belt. Used a gallon paint can to hold up the drum, while I secured the belt. whoooo hooo I did it all by myself...59 yr old Female Do it yourself enthusiast! Thanks for all the information.

I had no idea how to take my dryer apart so it took me a little while to figure out. I hope by me writing this out my experience might help someone else fix their dryer instead of having to buy a new one. 1)I removed the lint screen assy by removing the 2 screws that hold it to the dryer top. 2) I popped up the front of the top of the dryer which is held to the dryer body by 2 spring type clips. Removed by prying up the top using a big screw driver to release it from the clips.3) Reaching through the top of the dryer and feeling down along the front there is one fastner on each side that holds the dryer front to the dryer body. I removed using a nut driver. 4) The dryer front then can be removed by lifting it up to release it from 2 hooks on the bottom that it hangs on. 5) The coils were located at the lower left side of the dryer as part of the gas heat assy. There is a bracket that holds the 2 coils in place using 2 screws. I removed these 2 screws. Then the old coils can be lifted off the valve post. Then unplug the electrical connector from the old coil and plug in the new coils. 6) Reverse the process to reassemble. After this my problem was fixed and my dryer is working great.

Followed the easy to understand how to video. The drier was up and heating again in less then 30 minutes.

I unplugged the dryer from the wall outlet and remove the two screws from the lint filter area, followed the instructions that were in the repair video and put the appliance back together and re=attached the power supply. It worked perfectly. Thanks so much for your service and instruction help.

Pulled out the broken part than easily snapped the new part into place..

Viewed your video on line VERY HELPFUL, problem is the igniter will not stay on long enough to heat up. I just went back on your site and ordered a Thermal Fuse and a Cycling Thermostat for the machine but think it may be to old of a machine to keep trying to repair.

Probably could have went faster but wasn't sure on how it would go. Overall not to bad. I wish the manufacturing companies would include the breakdown of the applicances like they use to,that would have helped alot. On the front panel there are 2 clips that you have to pay a lot of attention to. Otherwise you will break them off. . Gaining access to the igniter clip was somewhat of a chore but if you go slow it goes pretty good.

Shut off power. Opened the top, removed 2 screws one on each side of front door. Opened clip and removed switch and unplugged wire. Removed front door by lifting it up off bottom clips. Removed the drum and checked the drum support wheels, idler and motor pulley. Shop vacuumed everything to get all the lint, dirt and spider webs out. I was lucky, my idler has a spring, so I cut a small piece of wood and put it between the exhaust pipe and the idler to keep it out of the way. I replaced the drum, slipped the belt over the drum and centered it over the pulley (old belt mark on the drum). I reached under the right side and put the belt around the motor pulley and carefully removed the wood holding the idler, turned the drum by hand to check it. Set the front door back in place, plugged the wire back in, put the switch back in the clip, put the 2 screws back in, turned the drum by hand again. OK! Turned power back on and started the dryer. Total new belt installation time was under 10 minutes.