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A small water leak at door
After replacing broken door cables I had a small leak at the door corner. I replaced door seal with that not fixing the leak and found that the door hinges were bent a little from the cables being broke for awile. Installed new hinges and leak is fixed now. A little difficult but once unit was pulled out about 6 inches the hinges were not bad to replace
Put new rack by old rack. Carefully remove a wheel assembly off old rack, then installed on new rack. Did this 3 more times. Then remove front tab clips off old rack & installed on new rack
The Spinner at the top of the dishwasher came off and would not stay on.
First of all I appreciate the instructions provided by this site when I selected the part I needed! The installation was so easy. I popped the end caps off of the top rack guides and removed the top rack. I reach in and popped the clips holding the top sprayer bar and gently pulled down on the sprayer bar enough to place the spinner button in the top of the sprayer bar. Then pressed the spinner on the bottom of the sprayer bar into the button I place in the top of the sprayer bar and reattached the sprayer bar to the clips. Put the top rack back on the guides and replaced the guide caps and it was finished. Easy fix thanks to this site great instructions!
Replacing the float switch was fairly easy and straight forward. removed old using adjustable wrench and replaced.
Replacing the door links was not difficult except I needed to pull the dishwasher out and had to disconnect the water line. reconnecting the water line was the time consuming and frustrating part. Once that was hooked up and tested, i pushed the dishwasher back in place and all is good again.
I researched the internet about this symptom on the Kenmore Elite Dishwasher and I found lots of people with the same problem. Everyone fixed it by replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse. I removed the old fuse and tested continuity and it was indeed bad. Once the new fuse arrived I tested continuity and it of course worked as expected, so that was a nice wipe of the brow. The new Bi-Metal Fuse came with a nice instruction manual. I also used a video from YouTube to help with the repair as well, but the included instructions were enough. The only thing that was not clear was the best way to attach the new wire since it was quite a bit longer than what was orginially there. So I ended up just folding it up and putting everything back together and it worked just fine. This repair was very easy as long as you are OK with cutting and stripping wires in a somewhat confined space and not being too worried that you might mess it up for good... :)
I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.
I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.
after all I read about the problems with Kitchenaid I figured it was the solenoid thats part of the soap dispenser. I took out all the screws on the door...2 long ones are on outer top...seperated it...took out all the screws on dispencer ring...replaced it...pluged it in and put the door back on. we ran it thru a cycle and the door now opens and makes lil soap bubbles.....another job well done by Hank in action! all the parts in door are easy to replace....
LLeaking at bottom of door -Lower part of inlet damaged
REMEMBER TO SHUT OFF POWER _ Had to remove the screws using TORX driver on the inside door edge-- then came the hard part -- the foam insulation is glued to the inner door and the outer cover- I was able to finally separate the cover leaving the foam on the inner door. Then had to break off the foam insulation on the lower third of the door up from the bottom. I then had access to the screws holding the air inlet to the door. The screws are located so you can't get a straight shot at them and it is very difficult to get at them. These screws are hex head metric and very small. When they are removed the old air inlet will come right off. Take the new one and duct tape it in place inside the door and replace the screws. I recommend doing the outer ones first and since they are the easiest to get started, then you can fight the others a little easier. After the screws are replaced and tightened replace the lower half of the insulating foam by duct taping it to the foam that remained on the inner door. Then replace the outer cover and secure with the TORX screws. This was a time consuming and tough repair. I don't recommend it to a novice.
Factory crimped end of link cord pulled out of plastic fastner that hooks on door.
Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.
