7GU2300XTVQ3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I loosened the one screw holding on the plastic that houses the tab that holds the spinner in place. Placed my finger between the plastic and pulled down slightly just enough to remove old tab. Place new tab which is small in the hole,you can actually feel it going in the right place. With your finger hold onto the tab and then snap spinner onto tab. Tighten screw back up. Make sure you cover bottom of dishwasher just in case the screw and new tab falls from your hand.

Pulled motor out replace bearings cleaned up then installed the seals as discribed in your website. This is something my repairman didnt want to do. Only cost me the 50 dollars and a few hours with my brother. LOVE your website. It makes it alot easier to fix and saves me alot of money. Thank you. Debra

Fairly straightforward but required some maneuvering - 1) Unscrew and remove DW door 2) Unscrew plate holding in soap dispenser and rinse-aid unit 3) Unplug cord connecting to dispenser (bit tricky - you have to press a little knob that is hard to see) 4) Replace with new dispenser unit and put all other parts back together

At first I thought something was jammed in the impeller, so I took it completely apart(gutted it). Put it back together and still the same. thought it could be the control panel or maybe the door switch. changed the door switch with a new from PartSelect and still the same.Took it apart again this time checked the motor and sure enough it was frozen.Took impeller off only to find motor shaft was corroded from water damage mechanical seal must have leaked. BAD quality control also found a loose rubber washer in the motor housing and the door handle hinge was broke in half. I'm sure it was shipped this way. Thanks for the speedy delivery and fair pricing. Chris

Pulled the old one off and inserted the new one. Any woman can handle this one. :-)

Watched the "how to" video, then did the job. All in 15 minutes.

Glued on the nameplate

My main fear was finding the part and not knowing my dishwasher model without looking it up in the owner's manual. Imagine my joy to find the part color-coded on the website and extremely easy to find!!!

Repair was easy. After readjusting the dishwasher so that it wasn't leaning forward (it still leaked) I replaced the Door Gasket. Pulled one end out about 2 ft and pushed in the new one as I pulled the old one out and pushed the new one in. Came out and went in easy, just used a big screw driver to slighting push the new gasket in to make sure it fit snug. Fit, Form & Function was all correct. Works like a sharm, no more leaks and door does fit snug when closing. All good.

Remove trays, remove back water tubing to top of dish washer, remove bottom spinner, twist off white piece, remove 4 allen screws, removed all drain screens, found one more allen screw hiding under all the scum in bottom, removed scaper blade cover, found scraper blade shaft broken, to installed new scrapper blades, used a needle nose pliers to hold spring loaded shaft in out position, have to install screen with cut side down into slots the center shaft of motor and let it snap back into place, this was the hardest part, not a lot of room to get to hands inside. Reassembled dishwasher.while I had it apart went ahead and replaced top spinner, unsnap and resnap new one on. Runs as good now as it did new 4 years ago. Pulled glass, thumb tacks, bobby pins, string and goop out of bottom catch pan.

The first check was for any circuit breakers that tripped. Upon finding the circuit breakers intact, I removed the front panel from the dishwasher and verified power was up to the panel, which is was. I removed the kick panel and located documentation for schematics and troubleshooting. This led me to the bi-metal switch (non-resettable). After turning off the power, I checked the continuity across the switch and found it was open. Then I provided a short across the switch and turned the power on to verify panel was working properly, which is was. This verified the bi-metal (thermal switch) was the issue. I then ordered the switch and installed it per the instructions. While looking for the switch, I did run across another post suggesting the additional wire leads with the kit should be included since they act as a heat sink. With the new switch installed along with the additional wire leads, the dishwasher is working fine.

Removed plastic end caps from dish rack rail and slid rack off front of rail. Removed rear broken wheel and mount assemble that rail runs on. I believe this took a 3/16" socket which most people would not have and would prevent them from removing this part. With the right tool it was easy, without the tool it would be impossible. Buying tool at local hardware store would be much cheaper than calling repair man. After rear wheel mount assembly was removed, I slid rail forward so I could easily remove the rear rail end cap. I then mounted new wheel mount assemble using original screws and then slid rail through both wheel assemblies and snapped rail rear end cap back into rail. I then slid the upper dish rack on to the rails on both side, slid the wrack back and then snapped the end caps back into the rails fronts on bothe sides. The job was done and the dishwasher was ready for service.