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Error Code dH F
The refrigerator had the above code and when I check on YouTube, it explained that the defrosting was not working properly. It was taking more than 80 minutes to defrost. I ordered the Temperature Sensor first and it was not the issue. I also ordered the Defrost Temperature fuse or the Thermistor. I had to defrost the refrigerator first by using a portable heater to get it done quickly. (See Youtube on how to get to the Defrosting Unit inside the freezer). The Thermistor was the wrong part. I called the Partselect and explained that the part with the heating element is one piece. (Heating Coil Thermistor or Heating Coil). By replacing that piece solved the Error Code issue. I listened to Youtube for the instructions on how to replace the Heater Coil. So if you see the Error Code dH F, you need to replace the Heating Coil, which comes in one piece and sits on the bottom of the Defrost Element.
unfortunately my fridge stopped working. I purchased another but wanted to try and repair the old one. when ew one arrived, the old one was supposed to be put in garage but instead was hauled away. Had delivery return next day but they had as already removed and lost the handle screw for the bottom freezer and the screw that holds handle in place. ordered the handle screw and picked up the nut. very simple to install the screw and put handle back on.
Uncoupled the old connector, replaced with new connector and attached supply line. Repair easy with right part, prior to ordering the right part I had tried a compression fitting and it still leaked. U-tube and others demonstrating repair assured me I was on the right path.
I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.
Replaces door switches - removed screw from door hinge cover, lifted cover and removed switch. Plugged in new switch and reversed process. Removed screws from light bracket. Attached new frame to slots in roof and used screws to attach. Clipped on light cover.
door mounted cold water tank was leaking at seam of polyethylene tank.
The part labeled as water tank was not pictured on web site, and when it arrived it was a large coil of plastic tubing wire-tied in an oval shape,not a blown p/e tank as original.The oval of tubing would not fit into the door compartment, because of the bulk of the actuating solenoid. No instructions were included. It was necessary to hacksaw the steel solenoid mounting bracket off the solenoid, then contort the solenoid into the compartment to get all parts inside the cover. new connectors had to be purchased, because the the tank/tubing coil was 1/4" od, while the original tank had 5/16"od connections.
the lights melted the lamp case and cover. I determined it was the switch ,but there was 2 of them . I replaced both . I used a screw driver to pry the covers off the switches which are on the top of the unit .Then I press the tabs on the switch and pulled it out. Slip the wire connect off. slip the wire connect on new switch press it in till the tabs snap in ,put covers back on. the lamp base and cover had two screws holding them, pull the screws slip the old melted base and cover. snap the new base and cover in and put the screws in done!
The repair was easy peasy! Just fit it all in. Shopping here was just as easy. I'd delayed doing it for so long because I thought it'd be laborious but I found my appliance fast and the parts I needed quickly. The diagram you provided with part numbers helped a lot. Thanks for making it easy.
