Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.
Both front burners began heating too fast and too high. One damaged the finish on the splash pan.
At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief: 1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood. 2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four). 2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that. 2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it! 3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot. 3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong. 3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch. 3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob. 4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four. 5) Replace the cover. 6) Slide the range back into place.
I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.
Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.
Slid oven out removed one screw one plug replaced part took 5 minutes.told parts repair the error message and they sent me the correct part in two days will use them again saved me from Repair man wanted 85 dollars just to look at it my cost was 28 for probe and 8 dollars for shipping already helped neighbor with their stove they needed new ignighter 12 dollars repair place want 110 to come look at it this site walks you through repair best service!!!!
The repair went relatively easy especially after reading that another homeowner found the door to be "spring loaded". I was prepared and made sure I held onto things tightly.I removed the screws as I came to them and carefully removed the other 3 pieces of glass, finally reaching the inner panel. Putting that in and holding it as I put the next piece back was the most difficult. Once that was in place, the rest was just a matter of redoing what I undid. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous the first time I used the oven. No problems though, works like a charm! Thanks!
First of all I would like to comment on how it easy it was to place this order and I was pleasantly surprised that it was rec'd the next day. Also it was the correct part that I needed. To install it, first I removed the screws and then the metal that was holding the broken glass. Once the broken glass was removed, I set the new glass in the metal strips and basically screwed it back together. Please note to be careful to remember which screws go where as they are not the same size and do not fit anywhere but where they belong. That was the only part of the job that I had a problem with.
made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!
Oven wasn't heating properly for a few months and then stopped altogether
The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing. Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening. The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block. I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight. The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions. Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.