Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
light was not going on sometimes, or needed wiggling to work
purchased a new switch. The old switch just needed to be lightly pried out with a screw driver, then it was simple to unplug the old, and plug in the new. Voila! Light !
Remove door seal and cam shaft (one piece). Remove broken cam by removing Philips head screw. Replace broken cam with new cam and reassemble. The actual repair took about 15 minutes however the majority of time was spent figuring out that the door seal and cam shaft had to be removed, no tools required.
I screwed the old one out and replaced it with the new one. A no-brainer. The thing that was so amazing was that I ordered the filter on the intrnet and it arrived the very next day!!! I was very surprised and pleased with the very quick shipping!!!
Each time we've had to move we have to remove the doors from the fridge to get it thru the front door.since water and ice run thru the freezer door there are 2 tubes that connect at the bottom of the freezer door that aren't meant to be separated very often if ever.it's easier to cut the tubing on b
With alot of elbow grease and a pair of pliars we managed to get the old connector off wo cuttig the tubing as the tubing was getting to short from being cut once to many times & there was no more play in the length.Original connector was a different color and shapped slightly different than the new one so was a bit concerned that I had ordered the wrong part but it went one very easily & did not leak. We even managed to remove it again just to see if it was possible wo cutting again. it came off with no trouble.I would say the replacement part was a better fit than the original simply because we could remove it easily wo having to cut the tube!
door mounted cold water tank was leaking at seam of polyethylene tank.
The part labeled as water tank was not pictured on web site, and when it arrived it was a large coil of plastic tubing wire-tied in an oval shape,not a blown p/e tank as original.The oval of tubing would not fit into the door compartment, because of the bulk of the actuating solenoid. No instructions were included. It was necessary to hacksaw the steel solenoid mounting bracket off the solenoid, then contort the solenoid into the compartment to get all parts inside the cover. new connectors had to be purchased, because the the tank/tubing coil was 1/4" od, while the original tank had 5/16"od connections.
I removed the old lamp cover and case. Discovered that the last repair person had not re installed it correctly so the case had melted from the bulbs. I Removed the screws that was supposed to hold it up, assembled the case and cover, inserted the screws and anchored them in where they belong. Problem solved!
Tape off the light button so door alarm does not go off. Take off the clear light shield and remove the light bulbs. Be careful, bulbs may still be HOT!! With Phillips head screw driver unscrew the light plate assy. Drop it down in a comfortable position. Disconnect the connector, unscrew the thermal sensor and remove light assy. Install new light assy into light plate assy. There is no thermal senor in the new assy. Snap light plate assy back into place and install the two screws previously taken out. Install bulbs and clear cover. Remove tape from light door switches and you are done. Lights should go on and off when door buttons are pushed in and out.