I applied the excellent description of accessing and fixing the drier givenby others. When the second fusible link opened, I consulted the Repair Forum. Denman, an obviously experienced responder, walked me through the diagnostics.
I did not ask denman's permission to pass on his recommendations so they may or may not apply to your situation. Heere
"Here are your parts with a wiring diagram
Maytag YE225LV
With the unit apart and drum/belt removed and thermal fuse wires shorted together the motor should run. You also have to tape or hold the door switch closed. I would also disconnect and tape up one of the wires going to the heater coil as it will overheat. Never leave the thermal fuse shorted as the unit can cause a house fire without it.
Be very careful that everything is well taped up so you do not get a short.
You have 220 volts in the unit which is very dangerous.
The motor should manually turn easily from the pulley end.
The ding from the fan indicates that there is a problem here. Check it carefully.
Here is a good site
Dryer Help Sections, repairing dryers, Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, Inglis, GE, Frigidaire, White Westinghouse, Magic Chef, Norge, changing a 3 prong cord to a 4 prong cord, no heat, electric dryers, gas dryers, how to take apart my dryer, what can st
Check out the Maytag Dependable Care section / 26 -motor problems / "Check this out" at the bottom of the page
Normally your high limit safety thermostat should open before the thermal fuse blows.
When you ran your test did you run it on fluff (no heat) at first?
I would remove and check the heater for a grounded element.
Depending where it breaks/shorts it can be on high heat all the time with the thermostats having no control of it.
From your description this would be my prime suspect!!"
My observations:
1 the reference above is to applianceaid.com, which had useful tips. Tip #4 was washing the filter screen with detergent, as it holds an invisible layer of residual lint.
3. When cleaning, disconnect front panel, take out filter and clean the cavity behind the filter. I used a garden hose and large volumes of lint came out.
Now I am scheduling full clean out at least annually, including washing screen and inside door.
2. since thermal fuses are designed to open when overheated, it is hard to test if they work or not. (They test continuous at room temperature.)
3. at Denman's subsequent suggestion, I replaced the thermal fuse past the blower. (There is a thermal fuse ahead of the heating elements and the elements heated, so it is a less logical failure candidate.)
System working fine. The help was worth as much as the parts!
Parts Used: