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667AJ-TSAW Admiral Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 667AJ-TSAW
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When We Turned On The Oven The Temp. Reading Went Up To 425 And Beeped By No Heat
Disconnected power pulled oven from wall, removed 8 screws from back, unplugged sensor, removed old, attached new, put screws back wow saved me $500. From buying new and $150. For service call
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • DAVID from Cape Coral, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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change oven sensor
Followed provided video
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Lloyd from Eau Claire, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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I had a power serge and it burned the Plug at the termial block and melted a few wire.
After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block
  • Robin from Vanderbilt, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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My oven was not holding temperature.
I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Anthony from Acworth, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Hotplate not working
Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.
Parts Used:
6 Inch Element with Limiter
  • Anthony from Louisville, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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The original bake element burned out
1. Removed racks 2. Removed two screws holding in the bake element. 3. Gently pulled out the element exposing the two wires connected to it. 4. The two wires were held by a clip connection. 5. Removed the wire clips holding the wires. 6. Attached the clips to the new element and re-installed the element. New problem: The element did not heat up. A repairman informed me that the selector switch was damaged during the burnout- that switch was no longer manufactured and was discontinued. Whirlpool company was checked and indicated that there was a new part # 7403P023-60 but that was discontinued too. I was able to get the element working by moving the selector switch to the "Bake" position and then moving the switch about 1/4" in the clockwise direction. The element heated and the oven works at least for now as I search for a replacement part. PartSelect was an invaluable aid and helpful all along the process.
Parts Used:
Bake Element (15 Inch long x 19 Inch wide)
  • William from Florissant, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Upper oven shut down after reaching temperature
The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Earl from Globe, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Right-side oven door spring broken
Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!
Parts Used:
Oven Door Spring
  • Ted from Horseshoe Bend, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Oven would not heat on Back Cycle
The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Jeff from Thousand Oaks, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Oven have F2 and F3 codes following cleaning cycle making oven inoperable
Remove 2 screws in upper left corner of stove holding sensor in place. Pull sensor out and disconnect plastic electrical connector. Select appropriate adapter (both styles provided with new part) & reinstall. Power up stove and select bake on control unit to test. Works like a charm!
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor Light Bulb - 40W
  • Timothy from Longmeadow, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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surface burner failure
Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.
Parts Used:
6 Inch Element with Limiter
  • Gerald from Hot Springs Village, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Range had an F-2 code on the control panel
I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Greg from Frederick, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Oven would overheat
Followed directions as supplied. New part did not work, so it must be in the control unit which is no longer available. So time for a new range.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • MARK from roseville, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Temp spikes.
Remove sensor from oven. Disconnected wire from back. Connected new sensor and reinstalled. Temps now stay stable.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Wayne from Grantsburg, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Had code F1 and F3 on my oven. Oven wouldn't heat.
Watched the video and it was as easy as described. Not many things go as easily as this.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Cindy from Polson, MT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the 667AJ-TSAW
106 - 120 of 132