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Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!
This wasn't a "repair", but I got an email asking for my story, so here it is. :-)
I followed the owner's manual instructions by pulling out the burner elements, lifting up the old drip bowls, setting in the new ones, replacing the elements.
piece of cake. The pictures with the grid background on your website gave me ability to verify what I was purchasing.
This is the second use of Parts Select. First time was for another obscure part for an old microwave, which also worked out VERY well. Both appliances still in action.
1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't. 2. Raise the control panel 3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them 4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size. 5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together. 6. Reset the break and test.
I first removed the back panel that covers the switches from back of stove; then I removed the wires and put them on the same numbered wires on the new switch; put the new switch in place with the wires connected to it; installed the 2 front screws and put the back cover on again & it took about 10 min and saved about $300.
Took the old ones out and put in the new ones! What I am so pleased about it that I just went online and at Parts Select website it was easy to find what I needed, a fair price and the 4 bowls arrived within 2 days!
burner receptacle failed (stove over 30 years old)
Took out burner (pulls out) Took out one screw that holds recep. in, cut the two old wires and attached new wires with wire nuts included in the new package.
Jennair cooktop with coils lost one of its coil guides.
We bought the replacement Ceramic plug and wires, and opened up the jennair cooktop piece and rewired the NEW coil guide into the system. It works great.