Just removed and replaced by putting the new turntable and glass in, 1, 2, 3; that's it. I'm so thankful for this site because I would have had to buy a whole new microwave. Thanks a million!
The over the stove microwave door would not close.
I unplugged the microwave. I did watch a YouTube video to see how the plastic frame around the door could be removed. I used a putty knife to pry it off. The spring was still in good shape, so I hooked it up to the new latch/locker part and onto the microwave. This was just a little time consuming because I was trying to be careful so I wouldn't break anything on the new part. The plastic frame clicked right back on. I plugged the microwave in and it worked right away. If I can do it, you can do it. Sure beat buying a new microwave. Great experience.
Microwave door would not shut completely and would not activate switches
After checking all three switches for continuity I determined that the plastic door lever had warped or gone out of wack. After shutting off power at the breaker box I removed the door, the inside trim piece around the inside of the glass. Removed the black two prong door lever, reattached the new door lever and then reinstalled the trim piece and all screws. Works fine now. Easy fix just make sure your switches are all ok then replace the door lever.
Unplugged the microwave. I opened the door. I used a butter knife to pop the bezel off the inside of the door. I pushed the locker up and to the left and used the butter knife to pry it loose. Disconnected the locker from the spring, and reversed for the installation.
Micro Wave no heat all else fine. Also at times door would not shut properly.
Replace (after testing w/ohm meter) diode and locker holder. My door often would not close properly. Microwave let know by saying not shut properly. When disassembled found the top screw mount was hollowed out resulting in it moving on occasion when you close door. First remove casing (special safety torx head) needed for rear screws. Onc e removed all parts available to view or work on. Diode is on the capacitor so caution is needed when removing. Serious shock hazard if touched. Use insulated pliers to remove from capacitor and a phillips on the ground. Test with ohm meter Should have resistance on way and non the opposite. Replaced mine bad. Next the holder 2 phillips screws and its yours. Unplug each switch and remove. Take note to what wires go to what switch and what switch mounts where. Mine had 3 switches. Removed from old holder and put in new. Screwed holder back in place and left scrws loose till re wired. Once wired set the holder by lightly tighting the screws. Try the door till it seats properly ensuring that all 3 switches are working properly. If so thighten screws. If all seems to work as advertised, safely plug in and test unit if heats up un plug and put cover back on micro. Your all set. Happy heating.
Microwave fan would come on when door open. Timer and unit would not switch on.
I looked up my problem on the internet and found a very helpful video. Microwave on video was different brand but the internals and methods were very much the same. The video made it simple and easy to fix. Found the replacement switch on the LG parts site and ordered. Two different switch types. One with red switch, the other green. Part was $7.28. Saved a bundle in service costs. Here is the repair video.
Took a putty knife and our the inside trim molding around the glass loose used a phillips screwdriver to remove old handle and install new handle popped trim piece back on.
Microwave & turntable quit working-the computer worked ok.
Took off cover and checked all of circuits (& fuse). Had continuity until I got to turntable motor. Little motor on bottom of micro.It did not have continuity. I thought - looking at circuits - it had to be motor. When I got new motor - I was surprised there was no continuity through it but I was confident it was what I needed . But motor in & tested & worked fine. GE was no help at all! No useful info at all online! No schematics! The motor Had been discontinued ( thankks to info from Partselect.com). Partselect.com found a replacement part (& #).
Removed door from microwave and then popped the inside widow trim ring off. Removed 4 screws from the window bracket, replaced the latch with a new part and then assembled.
Initial failure of over range microwave Aug 3rd. Control Panel worked but no heat. Took to local LG authoriaed local repair place. They fixed it quickly and we re-installed it. Worked fine for 2 months then had similar failure again. Agaim took to same authorized repairer. They kept unit for 3 months but finally concluded theu could not fix it and suggested we contact LG for a partial refund. When they tested the unit during re-assembly in my presence, there was a blue flash and the fuse blew. Since we had built a custom tile mural back splash around this unit, I brought it home, ordered a number of time delay fuses new capacitor and two new high voltage diodes. However, using my Fluke DMM, I checked the existing capacitor and high voltage diode and they checked OK so I just replaced the time delay fuse. The high voltage transformer leads had 2 possible ways to connect to capacitor and diode. Tried one way, plugged unit in and turned it on, and immediatly blew the fuse. Replaced the fuse and reversed the high voltage transformer connections,amd turned unit pn, and it worked perfectly. Since we had experienced several power failures during the time of the original failure, the repairer concluded that power spikes might be at fault, so I also purchased a TrippLite ISOBAR4ULTRA 3300 Joule surge protector between wall outlet and microwave, and re-installed over range. It has worked perfectly since.