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Refrigerator & freezer not cooling / freezing
First of all, I do not have a history of repairing appliances or even the knowledge of what all the parts are named or how it all works. That said, please excuse my other than technical explanation of the repair. After reading a few posts, I decided to order the two parts and give it a try. The Defrost timer was easy to remove - two screws to remove the housing and two screws to remove the timer. The bimetal defrost thermostat was an easy installation - after removing the cover plate (back of freezer section) I removed the two wire caps that was connecting the existing thermostat to whatever it connects to - I guess the heating element and ? I was a little confused because the replacement thermostat had more wires that the existing one. I decided to cut away the extra wires and connect it just like the old one was connected. I didn't work at first and I was about to call in a pro. I turned the defrost timer knob and everything started to work. It has worked beautifully since and I got to brag a little to my wife - that was short lived because she reminded me of the other "stuff" that needed to be fixed! Thanks to the folks that posted before me - it helped me understand the problem and the repair.
The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.
I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.
I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!
I removed the plastic cover from the top hinge and loosened the screws. The magnet seal kept the door in place so I removed the top hinge and tried to lift the door off the bottom hinge but the water line wouldn't let it go. Since I don't use the water feature, I just cut the water line and lifted the door off. That's when I discovered the hinge pin was actually broken off, not just the cam. I went ahead and replaced the cam kit and put it temporarily back together, got right back on line and ordered the bottom hinge. The service was again very fast and in a couple of days I received the bottom hinge, repeated the whole process again and this time replaced the bottom hinge assembly, put some petrolium jelly on the cam kit and now it works smooth and perfect.
First I removed the knobs, then the plastic cover over the thermostat. Then, I removed the two screws that hold it on. I removed the thermostat, unplugged the electrical leads, and pulled out the old thermostat. I then inserted the new one, hooked up the leads and reassembled.
Part of cam broke off bottom of fridg. door & it quit closing automatically
Took longer to move food from door to inside fridge & take grandkids' artwork off door, & then put it all back than it did to replace cam. 1. Used phillips head to undo 1 screw holding cover over top bracket; lifted off cover. 2. No need to have someone hold door while you remove top bracket; magnets in door gasket will hold it tight to fridge. Used socket to remove 3 screws in top bracket & lifted bracket up off top of door. 3. Door's not heavy. I stood on a sturdy chair to get better leverage. Opened the door enough to break the magnetic seal & llfted it up off bottom bracket. I moved it over just enough to get to the cam, rested the bottom of the door on the floor, & leaned it up against the open front of the fridge to help preserve chilled food. 4. Removed the 1 screw holding in the bad cam to the bottom bracket (uses smaller socket than screws on top bracket). 5. I checked part that goes up inside bottom of door & it was fine, so did not replace it. 6. Trickiest part: putting the door back on. I put a hand mirror on floor by the right corner & facing up so I could see the underpart of the door as I lifted it eased it down on the right place. 7. Closed door, made sure it was straight, replaced top hinge & cover, food, & artwork.
the problem was the evaporator has frozen causing the water line to freeze also. I opened the cover to see the evaporator, verify it was frozen, try to unplug and let it thaw, but it would freeze again. Thought the defrost thermostat was not working but did not verify, order new one and replaced; it did not work. After a long time of experimenting different things I found out that the defrost thermostat was supposed to be clamp to the line. It was not clamped to the line, was just hangin from its wires when I found it. So.....it works now!!! but I don't know what happen in the first place: the clamp fell off, or did it come from mgfr unclamped but happen to work since it was cold new, now getting old and not cold enough to close the thermostat unless on the line? anyway, it works and I decided to keep the part for spare. Hope this help someone else!
After doing some research it appeared that the water valve was the culprit. I don't have the expertise to test the old valve but I did try adding water manually to the icemaker and it spit out the cubes so I figured the icemaker itself was ok. I ordered the new water valve on a Friday morning and it was on my doorstep the next morning. This was standard delivery! I removed a few screws at the back of the refrigerator that holds the valve. Pulled the old one out, removed three hoses and two electrical connections. Reconnected the same on the new valve and reinstalled it. Later that day the ice cubes started dropping again.
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
coupling on water line thru freezer door cut due to moving Refg and having to remove doors.
Snapped the large end of the coupling onto the main line coming from the water source and snapped the other end onto the small line leading to the ice maker. Quick and simple.
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!
Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
Refrigerator was stored for about 2 years and we picked it up when the owner decided to move into an apartment and no longer needed to unit (lost home to foreclosure). Brought the unit home and it worked great for about 3 days. On the third day my wife noticed a slight electrical burning smell. I did also and quickly emptied the unit and hoped for the best. The unit did indeed stop working. I fancy myself a do it myselfer but I would normally not go near electricity but thought what the heck it was free if i ruin it I would give it away. After a little research i found Partselect and they had a great design and a few stories that sounded similar so i pulled the relay capacitor for the compressor and sure enough the unit showed burn marks where the unit had shorted out. Maybe a bug got in there or water, dirt but I ordered the part. I arrived in two days which was great. I installed the part and plug the unit in and crossed my fingers. Very happily the unit clicked on and has been running great ever since. thanks Partselect, while I may not be one of your big customers I will refer anyone with appliance issues to your site first.
remove the bin from the freezer, there are 2 tabs on the lower front cover that pop off and you just pull the entire front cover off. there are 4 nuts that hold the blade cover which you can use the 7in1 with the insert removed.. i believe it's 5/16". remove the cover and the tumbler assembly pops out of the tray. remove the nut with a set of pliers and lay it out on the table in order. install is reverse of removal. make sure you get all the washers in the correct location when assembling. don't tighten the nut too tight or it will bind the rotating assembly.