52050119 General Electric Washer - Instructions

put washer on its side,removed 1cross section,loosened the nut that held on the pulley.
loosened the motor and removed drive belt,removed drive pulley,removed old seal,poured in 90 weight gear oil,installed new seal and done everything else in reverse order.
stood washer upright connected water hoeses,waste water discharge hose,set washer to spinanr turned it on to make sure no more leaks.
everything is working well

First, you will need to remove the agitator, if it hasn't fallen off by itself. Than, you will need a pulley to remove the coupling from the spinning pole . I used one of those pulleys with three arms to remove it , Second, I lubricated the inside of the new coupling with a little oil, and sided it down on the spinning pole. It was a little hard to installed but, I used a hammer and tapped it in. Third, I also put some lubricant on the new coupling to help the agitator slide down a little easier on the new coupling.

P.S. Check inside agitator for old rubber of the old coupling and remove it. (only if it has fallen off the old coupling.)

First cut off both incoming water supplys. Next remove the water hoses to the inlet. Then remove some of the screws that are holding the back panel on that will give you access to the inlet plate remove those screws and that are holding the inlet in. when you remove the inlet mark the wires take of the water hose and remove inlet now do the opposite to assemble There was no Rocket Scientist needed and the funny part $12. cheaper than literally going around the corner to the appliance store Thank You and my wife thanks You

In my case the rubber bonded to the agitator coupling had stuck inside the agitator cover (plastic part that comes in contact with clothes). The metal part with the splines could not be removed by gripping with pliers. A pulling tool needed to be used to remove the tool. I used a valve spring compressor tool for overhead cam engines, but any pulling type tool with a center bolt and jaws that will fit between the rubber seal and the bottom of the agitator coupling would work. After removing metal part of coupling from agitator shaft and cleaning up the rusted teeth on the agitator shaft that caused the difficult removal, I pried out the rubber part of the agitator coupling from the plastic agitator cover by inserting a screw driver from the top hole in the agitator cover and getting it under the rubber to separate the toothed parts of the rubber from the matching grooves and then pushed it out the bottom of the agitator coupling. Then came the difficult part of the project - inserting the new coupling. I found the instructions that came with the new part very unrealistic and was not able to simply wet the rubber on the new coupling after installing it on top of agitator shaft and then push it into the plastic agitator cover - it simply would not go down more than 1/8" in the cover. If you attempt to do this job using the method described in the instructions you will likely end up with a damaged agitator, or cover as you will likely resort to hammering the cover on which is not recommended because of shock to agitator teeth. In my solution this is where a long bolt, 2 large diameter washers that the bolt fit through, several nuts larger than the bolt diameter and finally a nut that fit the long bolt came into play. Using these parts and a socket set with several long socket extensions I used the bolt, washers and nuts to draw the agitator coupling into position in the plastic coupling. This worked extremely easily once all the parts were in the right place and put no stress on any of the parts being assembled. To do this, first I installed the new agitator coupling on the agitator shaft - making sure it would remove fairly easily before continuing, then I pushed the agitator cover over the agitator coupling as far as I could to get it connected well enough to the agitator coupling so that when I pulled the agitator cover back off the agitator shaft the coupling would come with it (still in place with the rubber teeth from the coupling started in the corresponding grooves on the inside of the cover). With the agitator cover removed I placed a washer that was wider than the top of the agitator cover onto the long bolt (the bolt must be about 8 inches long) and then passed the bolt through the hole in the top of the agitator cover, through the splined hole in the agitator coupling (the bolt must be small enough in diameter to fit through the agitator couping hole). With the bolt and washer pushed all the way down on top of the agitator cover I turned the cover over and placed it upside down on the floor so that the cover pushed down on the washer and bolt and held them in place. I then used an extracting tool (something with little claws that protrude or retract) to lower first another washer large enough in diameter to cover the diameter of the agitator coupling bottom and then several nuts larger than the bolt diameter onto the exposed end of the bolt that comes out on the other side of the agitator coupling inside the long narrow tube of the agitator cover. Once I had enough nuts in place to leave only enough threads on the bolt for the washer and nut that fit that bolt, I set the nut on the end of the bolt and used the correct sized socket with several long socket extensions attached to it to hand tighten the nut onto the end of the bolt. Then securing the head of the bolt with a wrench to keep the bolt from turning, I placed a socket wrench on the extensions and socket that covered the nut and then tightened th

took motor lose and belt lose first, then took pulley off from the tub shaft, then made a big mistake, I took and pulled the lower shaft seal. lucky I had a pan to catch the oil about half a gallon. After that I could not find away to put oil in the gear box, so I took the drum out and that didn't work but it was a good thing I did because the inside drum was rusting so I spend money on the seal for nothing. Had to buy a new washer. If I ever did it again I would turn the whole washer up side down so the oil could not run out and I would put the oil in the hole where the seal was. lot of work for nothing.

I pulled out machine turned off the water ,and unpluged the machine. Took off the hot and cold water hoses with help of vise grips. Next the two nuts which hold's the part to the machine(plate) and the nut that holds the part to the plate pulled out the part marked the four wires which go onto the part undid clamp on hose and pulled off hose. put the hose on new part , re-attached the wires , put part on plate and attached plate and part to machine hooked up hoses turned on water and plugged in machine . The washer does not leak and works great. I'm a 59 year old woman.

Replacing the inlet valve could not have been any easier. First, I removed the back plate of the washer using a socket wrench on the 2 screws. After removing the wiring attached to the valve, I then detached the valve from the plate with the same socket wrench.

I then loosened the clasp on the rubber hose and disconnected it from the valve.

I replaced the new valve using exactly the same procedure, only in reverse. First attached the hose, the attached the valve to the back plate. Then replaced the back plate on the washing machine and reattached the hoses.

This was not exactly the right part for my machine, well, it was the right part, it was just a different design ro something. It didn't quite sit in the same place as the original, and so, the little hose is crimped a little, which makes the washer really loud. It's ok because it works now without babysitting. It was not difficult to install, just took off the top panel with the star drive bit thingy, and took the old part off, installed the new part (forced it into place) and got it running.

I went to your web suite to get part numbers. Found your videos. It told me what my problem was and how to fix it. Pull clip off. install new knob reinstall clip done. Very easy and fast. I couldn't even get a repairman out that fast.

I was pleased with how quickly my part arrived and that it was still in stock as the washer was quite old. I had to remove screws on back panel to get at part. only a couple of screws held the part in place and 4 wires were connected. The hardest part was pulling the part out of black hose that connected water into machine. It had been on so long it wouldn't pull out and part of it broke off in hose. It took some fussing to get it out and then the new part connected easily.I took one wire off at a time and put on new part as to not get them mixed up.

I unhooked the fill lines from the washer. I unscrewed the cover plate of the water inlet valve, and pulled the valve out enough to disconnect the fill hose. I unscrewed the band clamp on the fill hose and disconnected the hose.

I took the replacement part and one by one moved the four wires from the old part to the new part to make sure I connected each to the proper terminal. I then reattached the fill hose and clamped it. (This was the only "hard" part since the hose has little length to work with and is inside the machine.)

After attaching the all the internal connections. I took the coverplate from the old valve and screwed it to the new valve. I screwed it all back in place. Before reconnecting the fill lines from the wall, I replaced the rubber washers in the hose (a good practice to do when re-connecting these hoses). Connected the fill lines, and voila--working washer!

Very easy and intuitive repair.

After pulling the knob out ( on position) a white retainer clip was visible behind the knob. Using a paper clip bent in to a "J" shape I was able to easily remove the retainer clip and knob . The old knob had several stripped teeth that caused the problem. The new knob came with the retainer clip installed . The knob slipped on and locked in position.

remove enough screws in rear panel to access water inlet valve. remove two screws holding water inlet valve to washer frame and flex valve outward enough to remove clamp on water inlet tube. wiggle inlet tube off of valve inlet nipple and back valve out enough to see wires. after noting wiring color codes remove the four wires from the old valve and discard old valve. install the new valve simply by reversing entire process. only difficult part of entire process is removing and reinstalling the inlet tube on the valve body as the tube is short and limits room to work.

had to pull knob out to see the clip locking the knob to the post.
finally got the clip out, pulled knob off sand put on new knob with new clip

Took agitator out of machine knocked old coupling out and inserted new one into agitator/washing machine. Part arrived promptl and correctly. Thank you. JD