4YED25PWBN00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

open ice maker door, use mirror to view slot in front of ice maker, slip piece in place and done

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

First I unplugged the frig, and turned offed the water and ice dispenser using the on/off panel switch. I removed the panel by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver at the bottom of the panel where the plastic studs locked the panel in place. By inserting a little upward pressure, the panel popped right ouff. The Micro Switch was very easy to remove and replace. Just make sure that the plunger on the ice dispenser makes solid contact with the switch when depressed.

Didn't know if part was replaced from the front or back of door. Removed back/inside first. Good excuse to clean mold found in places not normally seen. The only real problem was getting the face off the dispenser without breaking it. I now know it snaps off from the bottom. To replace one little nozzle you have to replace about 10' of tube. When I pulled the old tube out. I attached fishing line to it and used to fishing line to help feed the new tube through the door.

I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good

DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat. Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James

While moving our refrigerator when remodeling the kitchen, the front roller assembly shattered from age. The original set was made of nylon and age made it very fragile. Also to make the move easier, we removed the shelves. In the process the lower shelf support stud snapped.

When the parts came the first thing repaired was the shelve support stud. Very easy job to do, just take the pliers and rotate the broken stud counterclockwise a quarter turn and remove. Put new stud in the hole in the same position as the removed stud and gently, but firmly rotate the stud a quarter turn clockwise until it seats.

The front roller assembly requires a socket set, block of wood about 1/2 - 1" thick flashlight and 4’ level. First, remove the front grill by opening both doors of the side by side and pulling the grill out of its left and right side anchors. Close the doors. Place the block of wood under the front support near the center. Remove the leveling screw from the old assembly and install it loosely in the new assembly as the new assembly has no leveling screw. This will now allow you to remove the old assembly by removing the remaining screw in the roller assembly on the front refrigerator support and turning the roller assembly slightly counterclockwise and pulling out the front. You may have to wiggle it, as it sits in a slot on the side support of the refrigerator. To install, place the new assembly in the same position as the old, locate the slot with the flashlight and push the roller set tab into the slot. Attach the support screw and tighten while holding the assembly in place. It is a good idea to replace both rollers at the same time. The same rollers will fit both sides. Now level the refrigerator by tightening the leveling screw until the front rollers now touch the floor. Next, place the level on the top of the refrigerator diagonally but not on top of the door supports. Turn the leveling screws until the bubble is in the center when the level is set in either diagonal position. Replace grill and you done.

Remove the knobs and faceplate to get at the screws behind it. Removing the sensor is a bit involved but everything else is fairly straight forward. See other postings for description / order of operation. Replacement took less than 30 minutes.
Works great now!

1. Turn off water supply to refrigerator.
2. Unscrew water nozzle from dispenser.
3. Remove grill on bottom front of refrigerator.
4. Unscrew tubing at the left side of the union.
5. Unclip tubing from the refrigerator frame.
6. Pull tubing out of the dispenser about 6 inches.
7. Cut off nozzle with scissors.
8. Insert 1/4" diameter x 1" long molly bolt about halfway into end of tubing where it was cut.
9. Insert the remainder of the molly bolt into the end of the new tubing.
10. Pull the old tubing through the bottom of the door.
11. When the new tubing is pulled all the way through the door disconnect from the old tubing. Remove molly bolt if it is in the new tubing.
12. Remove the ferrel from the old tubing and use to attach new tubing to the union.
13. Connect the water nozzle to the dispenser.
14. Insert new tubing into the clips on the refrigerator frame.
15. Re-install grill.
16. Turn on water.

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

lift out old (broken) crisper drawer cover, replace with new. Replace glass shelf. Took longer to clean the shelf off then it took to replace.

I had read here from someone that fixed there shelf support stub and it was very loose, so I was trying to advoid that problem. It took me less then 5 minutes and my only tool was a pair of pliers. A short turn clock wise from the 9 on a clock to the 12 ( which is the top left corner ). then pull the broke shelf stub straight out. Put the new shelf support in the same way you took the old one out and turn counter clock wise 1/4 or from 12 back to 9 and you should have a tight fit. I hope this helped.

Removed four screws from ice maker motor/light support.Then unplugged electrical plug from side of freezer.Used two slip joint pliers to remove coupler from motor shaft. installed new coupler to shaft hand tight as will tighten as motor is run.Then reversed tear down order.
Ice dispenser works better than when we first got the refrigerator

Turn off the fridge and unplug the power. Inside the refrigerator unit, remove two plastic panels extending from the front to the rear cooling vent by unscrewing two screws. Gently unhook the thermostat tube from the rear vent.

On the control panel, gently pry off the two control knobs and the front control panel. Remove four screws to drop down the control assembly. Unplug the left electrical connector and unscrew the lever control arm being careful not to bend it. Disconnect the right side electrical connector and you can now remove the control unit to a table to easily work on it.

Undo two screws to remove the thermostat bracket. Undo two more screws to remove the thermostat assembly. Install the new thermostat and reverse the process just described. It takes about 15 minutes if you know what to do ahead of time. You will have to reuse the plastic tube that covers the thermostat sensing tube.