4GWED5500YW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Step 1: remove new latch from bag in which part comes. Step 2: push latch into hole where the other latch was. Step 3: enjoy having a dryer you dont have to hold closed with a folding chair.

Removed the top panel of the dryer via a couple of screws from the rear. Remove the rear panel swing it open light a door to the right, minding the electrical connections. Removed the belt from the pulley, removed the Tri-ring from the shaft and slid the pulley off of the shaft. The shaft was slightly rusted so I used a steel brush and brake cleaner to clean it up, placed the new gasket, pulley, and tri-ring on, replaced the belt, and put the panels back into place. As the dryer is about 7 years old, also removed the front lower panel and cleaned out unit which had quite a bit of accumulated dust and glitter especially in the vent lines. (3 girls live here). Pretty easy, most screws remove with just the one tool.

Could not be any easier. For less than $20 and 15 minutes time, I couldnt be happier.
All that was needed is a nutdriver to remove a 1/2 dozen screws to take the back panel off. Then a phillips screw driver to remove the thermal fuse. Unplug 2 wires and then attach them to the new fuse. Put it all back together and done!. Working dryer.
PS: I had enough gas line and ducting connected to the dryer ,so thatt I was able to get behind it with out removing them. This may have taken another 15 min. if I needed to do this and two adjustable wrenches.

The video instructions here were exact and very clear. I replaced the door switch but that did not fix the issue. I used the instant repair man tool and found that the next most likely part to have an issue was a the thermal fuse. After replacing that part which took 10 minutes... It works! My part was shipped to my home very very quickly. totally worth it.

I checked the thermal fuse for continuity and had none.ordered part arrived next day. I took a picture with phone to idenify wires. installed in a short time.dryer works like new

Followed instructions on the installation video you had on line. Really easy and fixed the problem.

remove&replace

I followed the video. Removed two screws by the lint filter, lifted up the 2 sides to the top of the dyer, removed the two screws by the door switch. It was that easy. The hard part came when I tried to remove the old switch that took the most time. I used the butter knife, since it was very flat I was able to lift it off. Put in the new switch, put all the parts back together again and it worked just fine. Thank you, PartSelect, I will come to you first. You saved me at least $150.00....

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

I watched the guy repair it on the video provided when i searched for the part. He made it look very easy and he explained it step by step. I ordered the part from partselect.com and 12 hours later i had the part in my hand and proceeded to replace it. Instructions and delivery were amazing. Thanks to all at partselect!!!

Followed the youtube video and it was very helpful. The repair was very simple. Just remove the lint trap, then the two screws under there, then use the putty knife to pop the two front corner clips. Disconnect power before you do anything of course..... once its all disconnected, you will see the switch. 2 Screws hold it in and then it unclips. Reverse to reassemble.

Disconnected power from dryer (safety first)! Removed bottom front panel (two screws hold it in place). Then remove the two screws that hold the sheet-metal bracket/guard in place in front of the heating element. Disconnect the two wires from the heating element terminal (white stripe wire is on top, remember for re-install purposes). Remove screw that holds heating element in place. Remove heating element from the vent housing. NOTE: The old heating element will be difficult to remove, it's a tight fit AND there's a spring on its' side that holds it tightly in place...beware that the edges are sharp; I used a pair of pliers to pull the element out in order to protect my hands. Once the old element is out, put the new one back in its' place...again watch out the edges are sharp and the element fits tightly into the vent, so if you have mechanics gloves now's the time to put them on to protect your hands, as the edges of the vent and element are sharp. Once the element is into place, secure into place with screw on left side, re-attach wires (white stripe on top terminal), put the guard back into place, close up the bottom panel, and power up.

I watched to replacement video from the website and followed. I did use the tip of a small knife to get the connector to come loose on the old switch. It was a really easy repair.

removed front lower panel and removed 2 hex screws 1/4" on front of heater tube support unplugged 2 wires hooked to heating element and 1 hex screw on side of tube that secures element and pulled the element out with pliers it comes out a little hard and then slid new element in and put it back together easy fix